4 link?????

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by Mofotoad, Jan 8, 2010.

  1. Mofotoad

    Mofotoad Member

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    93 stand.
    I'm looking for some info. I have all my parts to 4 link ( 7/8 d.o.m., bungs, hiems, and brackets) my truck but I need to know some link measurements.
    Thanks.
     
  2. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

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    The measurements are usually how long you need them to be. No certain measurements. I've seen alot go to the front bed brackets With a crossmember
     
  3. Shadetree Mechanic

    Shadetree Mechanic Addict

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    You also want to make sure you triangulate the uppers or you will need a 5th centering link.
     
  4. Mofotoad

    Mofotoad Member

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    I would like to use a parallel w/ a pan hard bar. Witck is better? Tri or para? I don't want to run air bags. I can make coil overs at work.
     
  5. Darrin87

    Darrin87 Member

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    If your not gonna bag it, a parallel 4 link with either a panhard bar or a watts link would work no problem, You can also do a triangulated 4 link which dosen"t need a panhard bar or watts link. Really it's all what you want to be able to do with your truck, your measurements can be what ever you want just make sure you set it up to have enough anti-squat, for that you will need to find instant-center. Here is a good book that can explain it alot better than I can
    Chassis Engineering By: Herb Adams
     
  6. Fabian

    Fabian Newbie

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  7. kamesama980

    kamesama980 Addict

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    Location:
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    91 Base
    -triangulated:
    benefits: everythings on the same side, don't need large brackets to drop down for the watts link or panhard (everything goes to the frame) also doesn't require fabricating a bracket on the diff housing.
    Downside: does have very slight side-to-side movement (not much though) have to make bracket on diff housing or cross over driveshaft (mount it high and it might be ok)

    -watts link:
    Benefits: when done properly, zero side to side movement as the axle travels. frame brackets don't need to be in-line with axle position at ride height.
    Downsides: needs brackets on both sides, they have to be braced. needs a bracket on the diff housing.

    -panhard rod:
    benefits: easy to visualize. don't have to cross the driveshaft since it's on the other side of the diff.
    downside: most side-to-side motion through travel. needs a bracket at ride height. if you change ride height, the axle travels sideways. said bracket needs to be stronger because there's only 1 bracket and bad leverage.


    As far as measurements, it's going to vary by how long the bars are and all that. I'd say get some jacks under the frame to put it at ride height (without the leaves) and start measuring and marking where brackets need to be placed on the frame. Remember to have any adjustable joints in the midpoint of the range of adjustment.
     

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