sup gents, so before i can get my truck out and about i gotta figure whats up with its engine...its running like poop. To be specific, it will start up but idle is surging and scattered, and if you dont hit the gas it will stall out. Also, when gas pedal is put all the way down it doesnt rev up but rather putt along a little bit faster. If you try and put it in gear it stalls out almost immediately when engaging the clutch. hopefully you guys that know more than i can help point me in the direction of where to check next. The SUCKY thing is that there is no interior in the truck, and that includes gauges - so jumping the terminals to see what codes its throwing it out of the question (at least until i buy some gauges) this is where im at so far: things replaced: -Fuel Pump - Fuel Filter - Cleaned Injectors (Professionally done) - Rings on Injectors were replaced - Fuel lines were purged and seafoamed - Upper Intake Mani Gasket - Lower Intake Mani Gasket - Throttle Body Gasket - Cleaned / Positioned TPS (supposedly new from previous owner) - Cleaned out the inside of the Intake Manifold (carb cleaner) - Coolant Temp sensor (Grey Plug closest to the head on the intake manifold) - EGR Crack Pipe Gasket was replaced (The EGR valve seemed to be working properly) - Valve Cover Gasket was replaced - Valve Cover mount gaskets replaced - Cam Gaskets (front and rear) (Half moon shaped) - Cam Cover Gasket - No weeping from the Head Gasket (replaced by previous owner before bought) Timing chain tension was fine and the driver side plastic guide was showing wear but not much. Compression was 138-149 across the board - Starter is brand new - Grounds were cleaned up - New Dizzy - New Cap - New Spark Plugs - Resoldered the MAF housing connectors im thinking that it could be IAC, MAF, or possibly the startup coolant temp sensor - though ill admit i dont know much about engines or what all this hot start vs cold start jazz is with the 22re, im not familiar. Vaccum is possible, as is valve clearance - i actually have no idea but those are all the things i can think of to throw at it. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Very comprehensive list - good job Sounds like a vaccuum leak issue > Check the air intake boots - especially around the convolutions - they are prone to cracking. > The PVC boots and hoses are also prone to cracking as well > Check all of your vaccuum hoses and connectoins. > Check all the air intake connections as well. > Check the EGR transfer tube at the nut - they seem tight but will leak air - can be hard to find. > Check / adjust the valve lash. Some extra gap won't cause this issue, but too tight an intake might. Doubt this issue has anything to do with the IAC / MAG / CSI
checked the intake- seemed good pcv hose was fine, replaced the pcv and grommet- it was hard and brittle but didnt seem to be leaking tried to check all the vac lines- im not totally positive i got to them all but i ran my hand over all of them and checked the boots on all of them and they seemed to be fine didnt check the EGR didnt check the valve lash- didnt feel like taking the whole valve cover off and replacing the gasket when the previous owner just did so (supposedly) like 2 weeks ago. could this be an injector issue? im running out of ideas and seems like everything i do doesnt improve it or change it- or if it is running well, the next minute it sucks again. im beatin my head against the wall trying to diagnose it, and short of just throwing everything expensive at it, im not sure what the issue is.
what exactly does this diagnose and what am i supposed to be looking for? There is a couple lines that look pinched a bit, and one with duct tape on one of the lines. What exactly would this cause though so i know if its possible that its the problem or just a secondary issue?
Is timing correct on this truck? You could possibly be a tooth off on gearing. Cool down a bit, My truck went through alt belt problems for almost half a year. It sucked trying to get somewhere when you realize you gotta drive home ASAP. I really think it could be mis timing, but that will be tough to do, with the engine idling bad. But since you put in a new dizzy, i'm assured you have fixed that. Is your Vane Air Flow Meter's flap moving without restriction? Lol what if the previous owner did the valve lash wrong?
btw, when it is warming up, how's the idle? then when it warmed up, how's the idle then? I'm trying to figure out if its a fuel problem or not.
its essentially the same no matter if its warmed up or not. cold start it will fire up strong then idle very slowly and shake the truck badly- which I found very odd that it shook side to side considering its an inline motor haha. It will idle almost like it has a hefty cam in it, like a surging idle. It will run smooth as the throttle is pulled- occasionally it will flutter when the throttle is down all the way but always smooths out at half or full throttle. IT almost seems like at idle its missing on a cylinder and is shaking, but at half throttle the output from the other cylinders is making up for the bit of vibration its being thrown off. ive adjusted the idle timing and i can hear it speed up idle but it never stays to the point where its a fluent idle. The previous owner says he properly adjusted the TPS in an attempt to get it running correctly - i diagnosed the TPS with a volt/ohm meter and everything checked out- but i didnt check the adjustment itself.
just maybe. a tiny leak after my VAFM makes the truck idle weird when warmed up. I actually had a problem like yours before.. cant remember what it is. At least you have checked the basics over. I'll think about some more thoughts. I'll get a picture of my vacuum lines too
CinNAMmon, what does VAFM stand for? I may need to replace that. I'll check my vacuum lines for problems.
just a question have you verified that your plug wires are on correctly? i had one mess up on me out of the box sent me threw the ringer trying to figure it out
to bring this one back from the dead- still not running properly. So i finally got some gauges in there and jumped te1 and e1 to check codes- it threw codes 24 and 31- which according to the FSM are: 24- Intake Air Temp. Sensor SignalOpen or short in intake air temp. sensor circuit for 500 rnsec. or more. (THA) 31- Volume Air Flow Meter Signal - Open or short detected continuously for 500 msec. or more in volume air flow meter circuit • Open – VC or E2 • Short – VC–E2 or VS–VC so- i ran the diagnostics on the VAFM itself and it appears to checkout, but the harness that goes to it does not... the ECM checks out and the Circuit Opening Relay checks out also - but, my fuel pump will not turn on with ignition unless i jump the Fp and B+ terminals in the diagnostic box. any ideas where i might be having a problem and what that harness runs to so that i can possibly replace/repair it?
the fuel pump switch and intake air temp sensor are both built into the VAFM. I would double check that first and make sure it is not glitching when you move the flapper door. If its not the vafm, check for continuity through the connector with a multimeter and then check the wires
and make sure you use a FLUKE multimeter. Cheap meters are too slow to accurately test glitching sensors... even my $50 craftsman meter is waay too slow to show the glitch I had on my TPS
k, i knew the fuel pump switch was built into the vafm, like i said, it worked when i jumped the fp from the diag terminal, but not off the ignition itself due to the vafm - but when i checked the terminals on the vafm they all seemed to be within FSM spec. I dont know what or where the intake air temp sensor is, or how i would diagnose where a short would be coming from with this? I think the problem is in the wiring harness for the vafm itself- but my question basically is- 1) does this make sense to you guys and is that a logical deduction of what could be the problem? 2) where does this thing dead end to so i know where to trace the wiring? ...how would you go about checking and replacing this type of issue i guess is my question?
it is totally possible.. I cant find a diagram online but they basically all go the ecu and the fuel pump relay above the ecu. why do you think its the wiring?
i guess i shouldve precursored this whole thing with the trucks condition- i bought it as a project, its fully bagged and bodydropped, etc. Meaning that nearly none of the stock wiring is in the stock location, not to mention there is a lot of stuff that is either just cut, spliced with a dead end going seemingly no where, or mangled in some way shape or form - the wiring harness is a mess basically. Along with that, the VAFM connector itself looks beat to hell, the prongs inside are all corroded and even when i cleaned them off they appear to be crooked or possibly even broken as they dont all line up quite right. No to mention the previous owner had told me that when he bought the truck, the connector was soldered on poorly and was missing some connections- so he cut and resoldered the connector on there to the original harness. I am thinking that somewhere along the way that this thing cant be quite right. Anyone have any idea where i can get a new connector itself? I ripped an interior out of a yota at the U-Pull and cut off its VAFM harness in hopes of replacing it- no dice, the pin configuration was different - must have been for the 6cyl. what other years/models have the same pin configuration as this that i could use? or is there a way to buy just a new connector from some where?
if you have another connecter that plugs into your meter but has different colors we can work with that. Toyota stuck the same VAFM on most of their vehicles in the late 80s and early 90s. I just got rid of my VAFM and replaced it with a piggyback computer and a modern style MAF. If you click on the .pdf instructions on the right side of this website it includes the pins and wiring colors for the VAFM on the first page. http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=44E2CD23-1BC5-4771-90CE-EF8B987AC046
i apologize for not being as specific as i guess i need to be in my replies - it seems like whenever i post something its not being interpreted like i am intending it. when i said that the connector i took from the u-pull didnt work, i didnt mean it was just a wire color issue- that i could have easily figured out. The issue however was that there was a different pin configuration completely - there were pin connections missing on the one i pulled where they were supposed to be on the stock one, and added pin connectors where my stock connector had an empty slot. i suppose what i will end up doing is first inspecting the harness from the VAFM to the firewall thoroughly, and if that appears to be good, i will cut off the connector that i have on there and label where the wires correspond. Then ill take the connector itself to the u-pull and compare it with other toyos and see if it has the same basic pin configuration that i need. ...of course this is assuming that the one that is on there currently is correct ...ill take the diagram you posted and check everything over. anything else?
