Yeah, except he is in Windsor, CA. I think the information you need is probably already available considering the relatively small amount of drop you are trying to achieve.

 

3 inch blocks rear
2 3/4 coils cut in the front

 

well i just picked up some blocks today ill post some pics when im done thanks for all the info

 

hey. i think i can help here. you may not want as much drop as i did, but its the lowest static hilux i have seen in a while. i live in lynnwood if anybody in the seattle-ish area needs help.

anyways...its a 78 longbed (RN28 if you wanna get technical)
i have about 3-1/2 coils cut off the front. stock replacement shocks. ditched the sway bar (rubbed while turning). and thats about all i did up front. alot of inner fender clearancing. and rolled the piss out of the fender lips (i used to have wide 16s, had to do it to turn). i get a pretty hefty amount of camber but they wear fine. im on 195/70/14s on stock steelies and caps.
for the rear, i started with 4" djm angled blocks. those broke. in half. so i ordered new ones (they said they werent under warranty...eff them). those broke too. i always overtorque ubolts, because i never try to reuse them. and i recheck them a couple times a day for the first week or so. habit i have. anyways, at that point i was pissed off i went through 2 sets and all they said was i can have like 10 bucks off the steel ones. no. so, i had olympic 4x4 make me some custom ubolts to my specs. i pulled all the leafs except the main and the stock overload. i trimmed each block down to that center horizontal surface (keeping the bottom half). then drilled through all 4 blocks. i removed the stock center leaf pin, and grade 8 nut and bolted all of that together. so the block wont move even if i snapp the ubolts somehow. since then, i havent had any problems. launches good. little twist if i grab 2nd and 3rd hard.

the problem, is the rear sits about 1"-1-1/2" from the from at the axle. bumpstops pulled. i need to notch the frame a little and then modify the shackle and hanger to get more drop. i dont want more blocks or less spring.

the other problem is the carrier bearing crossmember on the longbeds hangs stupid low. and doesnt have much bump for exhaust tubing. so i need to raise those so i stop dragging them on everything.

here is a couple pics with various tire and wheel combos and yada. if you have any questions let me know.

oh, and seth is a cool dude. he makes parts for mail order customers. if you need something for a toyota, he is the man. makes nice drop motor mounts for z'd front ends and i think makes steel blocks if you are worried about low quality blocks.

 

the pictures under the truck is with a measured 6" rear drop, it doesnt even tuck. this thing was way high when i got it.

 

dude your truck is sick as hell i just lowered mine the other day i took out the overload in the rear and left the two main springs and put 3in blocks the back is still not low enough for my taste and in the front i cut off about two coils so its just below the top of the tires my biggest problem though is i hit the bumpstops some times and i cut them down im not to sure if i want to take them off cause its my DD so anything you can help me with would be sweet

 

Hey all,
Im about to lower my 75 Hilux, anyone know what size the centre locating pin is so i can order some lowering blocks?
thanks

 

i used a 12mm x 2in grade 8 bolt/nut for my pin. put it on then trimmed it.




first pic is at pull a part

 

any idea what the factory size one is?

 

the factory leaf pin? any lowering block kit made for universal mini trucks will work. but, i think i used a 3/8" bolt. like 6" long. i had it go through both half blocks and the leafs. i could try and get a picture but dont know how well that would go with it all put together. i did it one night to get it back on the road. been good for a few months though. since i fixed the blocks. made it to oregon and cali a few times with no problems, err...suspension problems. few speed related ones, and some tires going bald. haha.

anyways, up front, i have no bump stops. given enough room for the tire to move, on a hard enough bump it might be able to hit the control to the spring cup...but i dont have nearly that amount of tire clearance. i have alot of pictures of when i had the 16s. ill add a few i think are important. also, this much fender flaring isnt needed for stock. but it looks sooo right. haha.

and yes, at lynnwood pull a part. that mazda looked okay like that but had half the passenger door cut out to shave it. with a horrible patch panel. that had like 3 pigeon crap welds on it. and thats not even the worst mazda body mods ive seen driving around. i saw a single caddy bucket on one side of a maz, and they didnt even shave the stock hole first. or fully weld the bucket in. or trim off the excess...i almost pooped laughing.

oh, one more thing, if you swap to an early 80s brake booster and master you can get more clearance for the booster area of the inner fender. i cant remember how close it was stock, but mine pretty much touched.

soo...on with the pics.

 

by the way, his name is mork. lmao.

LONGBED ONLY -- CARRIER CROSSMEMBER


pacesetter header, i need to shorten the runners.


225/50/16 at full lock, 16x7 with +40 offset.


no sway bar, no bump stops (tire hitting fender softens the impact) and some bites in the arm from wide high offset wheels


note how much the inner fender doesnt look stock...it took more blows than *insert boxer or porn stud name* hahaha


here it is being dwarfed by my comparitivly small fullsize


in case you are wondering, yes, i had more tire in the front of the yota than the dodge. haha.

 

extra comment on the fender lip photo:
i not only folded that flange over flat, but i bent the lip outward. then i bowed the whole fender itself outward. i have a special bat i used. its busted down. i keep it next to my seat. works great on hobos too. seriously. it does.

i had such a great rolled set of fenders. then i crashed. ruined the driver side. found another in that color (yep, hunted for months). rolled it and then mud cracks along the lip. i didnt know somebody filled a very shallow set of ripples with bondo. oh well. better than an orange taco tucking a tire. <<bad fender joke lol

 

if anybody wants a nice laugh, and is looking at stuff under the trucks like mine...i noticed yesterday doing brakes that i dented my shock crossmember with the snout of the rear end 3rd member. haha. which is weird, because this is how far away shonuff is from it on his truck with a decent sized block.

 

ya but ive got a seriously different frame back there then most.


they changed the ladder x mems in 77, and went to only 2 types of frame, short n long.

mines a 75 SR5 so its a short bed, but its shorter then the 77+ short bed which was called a standard in 75.

i dont have any cut outs in the ladder x-mems for the exhaust, you can see in that pic how close the exhaust is to the bottom of the cab, have about .5in clearance on top n bottom of it. the newer frames have lil cut outs for exhaust routing.


and ya, i bet i would hit frame before my third hit.

 

weird. the frame looks the same as mine, suspension wise. and the snout hits seemingly at the same time as the rear end. either way, im still not low enough. haha.

 

might be my tranny sits lower


or maybe my spring perches are different so i got a different driveline angle in combination with a lower xmem

 

ill snap a picture of how mine looks from the bottom tomorrow. ill be working on it. doing some carb mods. might get out to snoho to work on my dodge too. gotta notch it and stuff.

 

i have the same frame as nuff on my 77 my biggest issue is i hit the frame with my axle but that might be that i dont have the overload sping on there

 

i have a built set of roughly 4.25" tall blocks and i took the middle leaf out. so, i sit about 1" from the frame on the axle. if i sit on the tailgate, its on the frame. if i hit a bump, it hits. if i drive over a painted crosswalk the wrong way, it hits. hahaha.

 

ya i dont really know i think i might put a small notch in the frame so i can drop the rear an inch or two more i cant stand it hittin cause i drive it every day but the front is worse i just put new shocks up there today and it still hits the arms just as bad