Hi all,
I just bought a Jaguar XK120 replica from the 80s, which apparently is based on a Toyota 2WD pickup frame. RN23 I believe.

Does anyone have a parts drawing of all steering components?

I need to buy new Tie Rod Ends and Pitman Arm.
Can someone confirm that both sides of the Tie Rod Ends are the same and have the part number ES2093R or VN67D3 or MES2093R (Same part different numbers).

Also is the Pitman Arm number K9114 or 4540139126 or 4540139116 or 4540139135 or 4540139145 (Same part different numbers)?

Please see if you recognize the parts in the pictures as being from a RN23

Thank you in advance for your help as I am lost here in Europe where nobody seems to know about these trucks

 

Hello, I tried seeing any available chassis codes for your Jaguar replica and according to my resources the only chassis code our generation of trucks domestically [excluding Canada and anywhere outside of the United States] (1979-1981) are as follows:

LN40 (Diesel shortbed? 2wd)
RN32 I assume is a gas shortbed 2wd
RN37 Assuming a gas shortbed 4wd
RN42 Assumed to be a gas longbed 2wd
RN47 Assuming this is for a gas longbed 4wd

*only saying assumed/assuming since I'm familiar more with the 1982-1983 model line myself personally and it follows a similar numbering pattern for chassis codes*

1982+ removed the RN32 chassis code, and changed the chassis numbers to RN34 (gas shortbed 2wd), RN38 (gas shortbed 4wd), RN44 (gas longbed 2wd), RN48 (gas longbed 4wd) respectively

Can't date any chassis codes before 1979 for U.S. trucks at least for an RN23 unless you meant an RN32 and butterfingered it but I do have a diagram of the steering linkage, and according to your request for part #'s those would be...

Tie Rod Outers: Left - 45046-39105 Right - 45046-39105 (shared part #'s apparently!)
Pitman Arm: 45411-35140


Hope this helps out Also very interesting base for a replica they chose, very neat car too!

 

@83pickup Thank you for your reply! Another replica owner confirmed that it is based on the RN23 2WD truck.



I ordered all this so I really hope it fits

 

You left frame rail will have the Toyota chassis number etched into the section just forward of the A arm assembly.The first 2 letters followed by the first two numbers will tell you what chassis you have. You can then order drivetrain parts based on that number.
Early trucks had no VIN but did have a chassis number assigned by the factory.
I’ve attached a photo of my frame rail so you will know what to look for. In my case I have an RN28.
The serial number may be hidden under paint or rust. A wire brush might be necessary.
My truck is a U.S. import. They may have stamped the serial number in another location for UK imports. Check the right frame rail (same location) if you don’t find it on the left. Look everywhere. The number is there.

 

Thanks @fred heath
My chassis number looks very different. I wonder if they stamped a new one when repurposing the frame.

 

Yes it’s possible. That’s not a factory number. It’s in the right area, but perhaps ground off for the new number.
That’s the only place on the chassis that I know of.
The problem with one offs is you never know what been changed from the original.
Any drivetrain part up to 1980 should fit.
On your pitman arm. The steering box shaft has an index marking. Your pitman will also have markings. It’s important you align these marks before tightening down the arm. If you don’t, you will have different wheel turning radius. Good luck.

 

Ah so it was 1975-1978, seems my resource must've been conflicting then. Glad you figured it out though!
And glad to be of some help too!

 

Might be a little late for this, but look for a company called "StabFab". If you're doing a Jaaaag you might consider the option of rack and pinion.

 

Thanks @sirdeuce , that looks really interesting! I will definitely look into it later. Waiting for the steering parts at the moment

 

Wish I had thought of it earlier.

 

No problem @sirdeuce I wouldn't have had the time and tooling to do the modifications to fit that one now anyway. What advantage would the rack and pinion give? Less play? More direct steering with less turns of the wheel?

 

Advantages? Less parts! Each component in the stock steering mechanism has it's own little bit of slop that when combined gives you that vagueness in the steering. The rack-and-pinion is more direct, more responsive, much better for driving. With the rack the inner tie rods are a solid connection where the inner with a center link has a spring holding the "ball" to the "socket" where a bump will compress the spring increasing the play. The rack eliminates the center link, pittman arm with it's ball joint, idler arm with it's ball joint and axle play, inner ball joint tie rod end, heavy ass steering gear box. All those pieces combined allow enough play to affect steering geometry and response. The weight of the rack, ball to ball will be about 15-20lbs, about the same as the center link with the pittman arm. idler arm and mount. The front of the car would lose the weight of the steering box.
With a rack steering is lighter at the steering wheel, won't need power steering, not that it's needed with such a light vehicle. Losing the power steering is another loss of weight and cleans the engine up as well.
Check out any car, and I'm guessing most, if not all light trucks, they're equipped with rack and pinion. Costs less to manufacture and install, less weight, less load on the engine (power steering and weight), better for feeling and handling, which not only makes it better for driving, it makes it safer.

I could go on....

I'll just say rack steering is a worthy upgrade for any street build.

 

Thanks @sirdeuce , I will definitely look into it