Recently I started struggling to get into 3rd gear, I would have to really push it in and two days ago I noticed that I started struggling with 5th gear. Now I’m noticing that it will pop out and go into neutral and I’ll have to shift again but it will eventually stay in gear. I work at a dealership/store for commercial and semi trucks and one of the mechanic suggested I take a look at my transmission fluid. Two other techs suggested that I don’t do that and possibly look into a transmission rebuild. I just wanted to get some feed back and see what I should do and if anyone else has had this issues. I have also seen people that are having the same issue say it’s the bushings, and it sounds cheaper than a rebuild lol
Sounds like bad synchros to me, those are what slow the gears down to allow gear mesh, and they also hold the gears in place. You should definitely check the level, and you could try changing the fluid, it’s cheap and easy to do, but most likely you need a rebuild. I’m not sure about the bushing issue as I just got my mini last year, but there won’t be any bushings in the trans, aside from one in the shifter maybe.
In the old days before synchromesh transmissions, it was common to “double clutch “ between gears. You can google search this procedure to see how it’s done. If your transmission goes into third when doing this it’s probably the synchros. You also want to make sure your clutch slave cylinder is properly adjusted. If your clutch isn’t fully disengaging between shifts this will cause grinding also. Which 5 speed transmission do you have?
Hey Fred, that 'ol "double clutch" thing is for "rev matching". Most people fail with it because they don't understand the concept. Once an operator understands the concept and gets familiar with the gears and RPM needs they can shift without clutching, up or down. A lot of the newer caars are programmed for it so the operator doesn't have to learn. Before pulling the trans I'd say check the oil first. After that, change the oil. Drive the vehicle to warm it up and then drain the oil into a pan while the oil is still hot, it will flow more easily and any particulate will be suspended in the oil. Let that sit for a couple of days to let any particulate settle to the bottom and then drain the oil off. Check for metal in that sludge left in the bottom of the pan for any yellow metalic bits, that would be brass from the synchros. Use a magnet to pull any steel out. Shiny metal bits the magnet pics up will give clues to gears and mesh teeth. Another thing it could be, and you need to squeeze your memory for this one, is a bent, or broken shift fork. Have you shifted into 3rd gear and have it kick back on you? I believe the "W" series trans have cast Aluminum forks, stock, and the earlier "G"s have cast iron or steel. Both are fragile and easy to brek when you Gorilla shift, or get a big kickback.
W50’s we’re known for shift fork troubles. That’s why I asked what transmission he had. As far as double clutch goes, you have to increase rpm for downshifting, but nothing needed for up shifting. Simple in and out should work fine.
Yeah, the earlier W5Xs had weak ass shift forks, they were cast aluminum. I've broken more than my share. There are some upgraded pieces available. I think billet units. Never have had a reason to get them since my silly cars are now 4AGE powered transverse mounted power trains. Marlin showed me a few things they do to transmissions that reduce the failure rates of their rebuilds. I may be a bit biased, but if a rebuild is needed I suggest Marlin Crawler. Or if it needs to have that much work an upgrade might be in order.
So I got the shifter bushing replaced and I noticed an instant difference. I don’t struggle with switching gears and none of them have popped back out into neutral while driving. So far so good, I’m not sure if this will be the permanent fix but for now it’s doing the job. I am still going to get my fluid looked at and possibly changed out.
