So what’s going on I went to do my timing chain I ordered a kit offline that was correct for the motor but it came with plastic guides so I was going to order new metal guides but i looked on OfferUp and found a whole other kit for my motor with metal guides long story short I started miss matching parts and when I went to start it up it threw the chain before it could fire so I threw everything away got the head machined and installed all the correct parts tourqe to spec made sure all the bolts went into the same holes but now when I start it it runs but has a loud tick and I can’t find where it’s coming from I checked the valves all adjusted right valve cover isn’t tight timing marks line up checked the OSK tendioner that’s good bore scoped the inside of the cylinders they all look good and on top of pistons it was running fine before the timing chain idk what I did wrong please help
You say the engine has a loud tick, does the engine run rough as well? Did you possibly bend a valve? Mechanical fuel pump by chance? Need more info.
Yea knocks/ticks are a bitch but can be traced! Does it go away with more rpms(only idle) or does it get louder with rpms? Had a guy bring me his 4runner once thinking he had a knock, but it ended up being a exhaust leak.. food for thought
A video or more details would be great. An easy way to determine if it’s a rod knock or top-end is to disconnect one plug wire at a time, if the noise goes away you’ve found the offending cylinder, and it’s bottom-end. Wearing welding gloves or something similar is a good idea to prevent being shocked by the wires. Alternatively, you could shut it off and attach one wire at a time to ground, but what fun is that?
Now WHY, would you warn about the shock? That's part of the fun of pulling plug wires! So exciting! Actually, with the ignition system we have in our little trucks it's recomended to ground the wire to the engine using a screwdriver, or similar, and to shut the engine off between pulling the wires as having an open in the high tension circuit can send damaging voltage spikes back to the ignitor. With the age of the stock electronics I would adhere to that suggestion.
