Hi all, I just installed some Belltech drop spindles on my truck, and my camber is waaay out. I already had 1/8" of shims, and added 2 more 1/8" shims, and the camber is still positive. Is there a maximum amount of shims you can safely add? how many shims are others running with drop spindles?
https://toyotaminis.com/forum/threads/alignment-super-out-of-whack-after-drop-spindle-bj-flip.21317/ Pulled this from archives. Might help.
Unfortunately, my service manual (for 1988 pickup) doesn't say the maximum amount of shimming. But it does say to check the steering axis inclination and if the camber is still out, to check the spindle to see if it is defective.
Thanks for all the help guys! Fred, thanks for the link, but I installed new tie rod ends, so I had to adjust my toe anyways, it is the camber that bugs me. MrDinkleman, looks like we are looking at the same FSM pages that are indeed a lot of help, but not for this matter haha. SirDeuce, I forgot to mention that this is an 86', so it does not have any eccentrics. Maybe I will contact Belltech. I did some alignment work today, but I've got 5/8" of shims on the drive side, and camber is still not right. The passenger side, I only had to put in an 1/8" shim in to get things right.
What came off the truck when you tore it down? did the shims have that much difference? What comes to mind is twisted frame rails. New ball joints?? Did you get joints from different manufacturers? Different year trucks? Get out the ruler and chack centers. Just a coupla more things to check.
Twisted frame rails is definitely what I am worried about. I did hit a curb a while back. I didn't check the alignment before I started this front end rebuild, so I don't know if it was screwy before I replaced everything. I replaced the spindles, ball joints, tie rods, shocks, and all bushings.
Haven't had a chance to do anything on the truck this week. I did take some picturea of left vs right side control arms: These are the shims I have, but still have positive camber:
As long as you have enough threads you can keep adding shims, but with that many and still not in line there must either be something bent, or a bad part.
Something just ain't right. Time to pull out the 'ol measuring stick and do some comparative measurements. Ball joints, spindle, arms. Anything you replaced can throw things out of whack. If your partds supplier is taking shortcuts and just throwing the wrong year part at you...... Hope you still have your old parts.
Holy hell thats a lot of shims. How much +camber did it have and whats it at now? On both sides. Random thought, i know on mine the top bolt torque spec is like 80ft lbs, are these that much or more and if so could the UCA mounting point have bent somewhere along the process?
I'm pretty sure that things must've been screwy before my parts swap. All the new parts check out compatibilitywise. I had considered that the tab off of the frame rail where the UCA mpunts could be bent, but not over half an inch. Reality is, to figure things out surely, I should find somewhere that has flat and level ground.
Flat level ground huh, I feel for ya there, no level ground here either. Garage may be level, but I can't drive a pin in there with a jackhammer. What part of the Bay Area you hail from?
Sitting here, staring at the images. 1/2" difference should be easy enough to see, even with odd angles. Can't see it. I'd look at the spindles, but if the angles were off the brakes should rub.
Yeah, I've been staring at the pics as well and nothing jumps out at me either. The only thought I have is I see op has the drop lower arms...