Accelerator Pedal "Sticking"

Discussion in '1976-1983 Pickup Discussion' started by 83pickup, Nov 20, 2022.

  1. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Hello again folks!

    Recently, on my hour and a half total drive throughout the valley today, I noticed a particular issue with my accelerator pedal:
    Upon flooring it (all the way down but NOT pressing the automatic choke button, don't know what'll happen if i did that while driving to be frank!) and relieving pressure off the pedal, the pedal doesn't return all the way and hovers the engine somewhat above idle (can't tell how much since there's no tachometer but probably below 1500 rpm guessing off of sound and engine vibrations?)

    I believe the linkage is to blame, but innocent until proven, since I have to manually reach down with my hand and pull the pedal all the way back properly which doesn't bother me but it would be nice to not have to in certain fast-paced situations; traffic mostly. I will trace the linkage wire to the certain thingamabob that makes it go vroom, carburetor or whatever it might be and report my findings tomorrow, went all over the valley today and I'm beat not to mention it's dark and I don't want to mash the pedal a bunch and flood it.
    I'll update this tomorrow i promise!!! not like with my replacing the driver side running lamp thread :silly:
     
  2. Ponyryd

    Ponyryd Enthusiast

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    FYI when a cable starts sticking the next thing it does is break, lol. Might be the carb or another issue but I would limit driving if you determine it’s the cable itself.
     
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  3. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Check the linkage, return spring, and maybe spray some PB blaster or oil in the lining. I have to do that every once in a while
     
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  4. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Okay so upon a brief inspection, I've found a rubber grommet that appears to not be in the best of shape which goes into the cabin where the cable runs to the carburetor (picture with my finger pointing at it.) 16690749152119126872622608603110.jpg
    Where the cable meets the accelerator-carburetor linkage has some play in it, roughly half an inch, might also contribute to that (picture with my middle finger on it). 16690749989228895300397253278377.jpg
    Pedal linkage inside the cab has some slight play in it, and does need a little nudge to coax it back all the way when fiddling with it.

    Also noticed my distributor is leaking epoxy as a friend told me (picture of me pinching the goop on it) 16690750508848935682477439904768.jpg so I think I will replace that too, and a frayed igniter wire above it (picture of me pinching the wire; runs to the igniter assy.)
    Other than that, it seems to run good aside a coolant, brake, and clutch fluid flush! Checked the battery electrolyte level too and that seems decent from what I can tell... 16690751025438885940455874837253.jpg
     
  5. Ponyryd

    Ponyryd Enthusiast

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    The grommet will likely be part of the cable, and what you’re seeing appears to be a broken cable sheath, which will absolutely cause a sticking throttle.
     
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  6. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Yeap, think this should be an easy job but then again I'm having a lot of firsts with this truck! Will check and see if it's still available by a slim chance from new. Glad to have found the cause for it, and onto the correction! :headbang:
     
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  7. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Looks like RockAuto has some, albeit there's two different lengths listed:
    26.5" and 25.5"

    the ATP Y1157 one is 26.5"
    PIONEER CA8741 is 26.5"
    ATP Y716 is 25.5"
    and PIONEER CA8840 is 25.5"

    I will have to refer to my factory service manual on how to remove the cable and report back the length I pull, not sure if there's a defining feature on the trucks that dictate cable length (CA Smog, Transmission Types, 4x4 or 2WD, Early-Late model years?)
     
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  8. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    You can probably get it from the dealer still
     
  9. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    I called a couple and they told me it was NLA for a long time now, they didn't mention anything about cable length so I will have to remove the cable and measure it in that case. Unless you know of a place with an OEM cable? :confused:
     
  10. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Checking through my FSM now, and trying to unhook my cable to get a good look at it right now. I'll try to document what I do and how to remove the cable for anyone else curious to it!
     
  11. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Okay, removed the accelerator cable with a shocking amount of ease!

    The failure point on mine was the plastic/rubber/whatever material screw that mates to the firewall which allows the cable to connect to the pedal linkage; measured my cable and I believe it is a 26.5" (OAL of the entire cable is longer than this so not too sure what to measure here :thinking:maybe the sheathe?) and I'll be going for the ATP Y1157 since it comes with a metal screw which should entirely fix the failure point on it for the next 20+ years. If it's too long, I'll order the other and update this when it arroves.

    For those wondering how to remove their accelerator cable:

    IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER, but here's how I did it
    1. In the engine bay behind the air filter housing where the cable connects to the carburetor linkage, there is a metal mount with a 10mm bolt holding it on, simply undo it and push it aside
    2. Pop the end of the cable in the engine bay off of its joint to the left of where you undid the bracket screw mentioned above, no tools required but just be gentle
    3. In the cabin, where the cable meets the pedal linkage (look underneath your dashboard, took me a bit since i'm a tall guy) it is connected via a simple pivoting point, simply push the cable out of its holding parameter and you're nearly done no tools required here
    4. Depending on the condition of your firewall screw (mine was busted pretty good but i managed with a pair of pliers to unscrew it) simply unscrew it counter-clockwise and you're done!
    When my cable arrives, I'll update this with step-by-step photos for more visual folks

    To put it back in, reverse your steps or put it back in however you like, hope this helps! :waytogo:
     
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  12. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Cable is estimated to come by the 30th, maybe December first at the latest so I'll update when it comes!
     
  13. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Ok, got the new cable and it looks sturdy! Tried to hold them straight for a relative comparison. I'll install it tomorrow when it's a bit lighter out and warmer :cool:
    Cable came just by itself so hold onto that original screw! 16699463604052369586259501890219.jpg
     
  14. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Welp, cable installation was unsuccessful, appears the new cable balljoint attatchment was too small and split upon me putting it on the carburetor linkage :verdict_in:
    16700283295571470942965912481192.jpg
    As jetas said earlier in the thread, lubricating the old cable lining was the problem solver in my case. Lubed the old cable back up and put it back in. Atleast my truck has a not-sticky throttle now!!!:lol:

    Forewarning for anyone replacing their cable, see if the head of the cable fits on the pivoting point of the carburetor linkage before installing! Should be more considering with my parts cannon trigger finger. Next time, might hone it out with a drill to avoid this; Looks like RockAuto is getting a return order tonight... :duh:
     
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  15. 83pickup

    83pickup Enthusiast

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    Cable still feels like brand new after the lubricating, highly recommend it!
     
  16. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    I've had to spray mine down every few months. So far PB blaster has been the easiest to spray.
     
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