Almost sounds like rod knock or a small exhaust leak.

 

Its hard to tell, but it doesn't seem louder on the exhaust side. If anything it is louder on the Passenger's side. When I get a chance I will jack up the front and see how much louder it is underneath.

I'm running the same kind of bearings I was before the rebuild and didn't have a knock then, but I guess ya never know.

 

Is there any easy ways to check for that or confirm a bad bearing causing rod knock?

I guess I could drain the oil, drop the drag link, crossmember, and oil pan to get to the bearings to plastigate them. That is a lot of work, so I'm open to other options.

 

Pull the plugs rotate the crankshaft to tdc of each piston then turn it back just slightly and get something thru the sparkplug hole to push down on the piston. Its worth a shot

 

Oh, to see if it jiggles or rattles around? That sounds like a good idea.

 

Damn, that thing sounds like a diesel engine! It has to be part of the rotating assembly since it's directly affected by engine speed. IMHO, you might have a dragging valve.. and it's being slapped around by the piston head.

This noise can also be caused by staving certain parts of the engine of oil, but as soon as the oil pressure rises with engine speed, it would go away.. I didn't quite see that in your vids.. so it not lubrication.. I believe a rod would be a bit more pronounced/solid 'knock' and it would be a bit slower knock.. this seams to be all in the head!

I've also seen a spring wear out in the rocker assembly causing a rocker (intake side) to come into contact with the other lobe. Doesn't sound like that's the case here, but can't hurt to check.

Valve lash can also be a factor here . Re check all of them. None the less, you will have to take that head off at one point to find this problem. Which sucks because your so close to being done with this nice build. Keep us posted..

 

Tomorrow before work I'll take the valve cover off again.

Before I started the engine I turned it by hand with the valve cover off to make sure things looked alright, but I guess a third or fourth check coyldn't hurt.

I agree that it doean't sound exactly like rod knock that I have heard before, but it does seem louder in the bottom end than the top.

 

Or a loose rod cap?

 

Ok, so pull the valve cover And the oil pan! Haha wish it were as easy as that.

 

Yep

Ugh

#3 has got some play

I knew it sounded like it was coming form the back bottom of the engine.

So I will try to plstigauge it to see whether I need an undersized bearing or if I need to pull the crank to have it machined.

Happy to know what is up, unhappy with how much work it will be. Also unhappy that I didn't check this while the engine was on the stand. Let my mistake be a reminder to anyone rebuilding their engine; always check everything!

 

One things for sure, you will know that engine intimately by the time your done! Lol. Keep up the great work, it WILL be worth it

 

intimately? When I broke it down for the rebuild I challenged a buddy to pick any bolt at random and told them I could tell em exactly where it went. Sure enough, I could.

I'm really wondering why I didn't have this issue before. I am using the same crank and rods as before.

This time if I do have to pull the engine I'm just gonna buy a hoist because all the rental places around here have the crummiest run down things, and renting one to pull it and then stab it back in will be more than buying one.

Part of me is considering having a shop do the work but that is probably dang expensive, and I know I can do it myself. Sure is a workout, but hey, keeps us healthy right?

 

Hahaha that's right! Yea definitely do some of the work your self if not all of it. Last thing you want is an apprentice/newbie at a shop handling this beast of a motor.

You brought up a good question tho, why wasn't it doing so before.. I'd drop the oil pan before taking the engine out.. and just make sure it's not something you can address then and there .

 

Pulled the #3 rod cap this morning. It definitely shows friction on the bottom, but doesn't go all the way up the side:



I plasigauged it, and things are just a bit out of spec:



The manual says spe is 0.024 to 0.053, with the limit being 0.080. So I'm out of spec, but not at the limit.

After looking online at how expensive a new crank would be, I contacted a local shop. 165$ for a grind and balance. Geez, if I had known that I would've just done it during the build!

Anyone ever pulled a crankshaft with the engine still in?

 

Sorry buddy, but it's part of building. All or nothing. But it pays off.

 

I'm anticipating this aswell, and going oversized top and bottom.

 

Pulled the crank out the bottom. It was actually pretty darn easy and only took a day. I dropped it off at the shop to go to for cranks, Ed's Crankshafts. I have never seen so many cranks in one place before, it was a pretty surreal thing to see. He said he'd be done by tomorrow morning, and that he would throw in the bearings too.

So the next time I have a day off (starting a second job saturday, so who knows when that will be?) I will pop the crank back in. I'm still waiting on some new gaskets to put things back together, but at least I can get the crank in and torqued up before things get sealed up.

Last night I installed a new wiper fluid pump that is much louder and more powerful than the old one, so that will be nice once I actually start driving again haha. The new pump is not gravity fed, so I can have my reservoir bottle right side up instead of upside down. That will definitely make refills much easier of an operation.

 

I liked this view of the turbo through the block


And here it is, one of the last parts from the original engine:

 

Nice going man! Curious as to how you held the pistons in place! ? Haha I would've assumed they would just fall out..

 

Ah! I was worried about that too. I loosened all the valve rockers to make sure that the valves were cloeed, and pushed the pistons up all the way. The seal was good enough that theu stayed up while I popped the crank out. I then stuck a section of broomstick in there, and pulled the rods down onto it.


Newly ground crank and bearings are sitting on my workbench now, so maybe Tuesday I will get a chance to pop it in. I should have the timing cover gasket and rear main seal housing gasket by then too.