Hi all,

I've had some questions here and there recently about the AFM upgrade that I recently did, so here is a little run through for ya.
First off, I went with this upgrade because it increases the diameter of the intake. I have a 22rte with a performance head and exhaust system (see Betsy) and I wanted to allow more air into my engine. I don't know if this will work for you, but I had fun with it, and I do believe that it has improved performance.

These are the AFMs next to each other with their dimensions
Front:

Back:


If you manage to get an AFM that is from a later year than an '82 5m, the internal circuitry will be different. I ended up with one that was not an 82. Easy enough, you can just swap out the internals and everything jives!



For the piping, I just kind of pieced it together. From the AFM down, it is a 3" to 2.5" silicone reducer with a 45 degree angle, a 2.5" metal intake pipe with a 45 degree bend, and a 2.5" 90 degree silicone elbow. The metal 2.5" pipe is the most constrictive point on the system, so I gave ya a little maths showing how much bigger the new intake is compared to stock.



The stock pipe has an intake port for the front vent on the valve cover. My system doesn't, so I was recommended to tap the bottom of the AFM for a port behind the vane to hose to. for now, it just have a vent filter on the hose coming out of the valve cover.


One great thing with this upgrade is that the 5m AFM has an adapter for a cone style filter.


I'm running the cone filter for now, but it sounds obnoxious, so I'm trying to modify the stock air box to allow more air though and mount to the 5m AFM.

Thats my story, cheers!

 

Nice write up & photo's!

 

Thanks Truck Action! I'm just doing my thing and hoping to spread the knowledge. It seems like around 2009 to 2012 there was a lot of things being done and said with these trucks and a lot of knowledge out there. I do my research, and want to make sure that this info is still available for everyone.

 

I've thought about this, but I believe the AFR would be lean. Any other necessary parts to make this work? If the injector volume is increased to work with the greater flow through the AFM the idle would become overly rich. Can't find any straight-up answers out there.
Just spitballin'.

 

Didn't have a problem with that. I read a lot about lean concerns, but didn't experience it. Only problem I had was fuel cut under high acceleration due to the more air passing through. My AFRs were steady in the 14.7 range even with this upgrade and all the other upgrades on my engine.

 

Was that 14.7 under power or just at idle, or cruise? Fuel cut should only occur at a specific programmed RPM. Acceleration rate and airflow wouldn't be an issue. I would rather see AFRs at cruise closer to 14.0 and under power closer to 13.0, maybe a bit richer, and that's still a bit on the lean side. Still looks questionable to me.

This truck I have, is my first 22RE, Since I live in CA I want to stay within the smog Nazi's guidelines, at least make it seem like I am. I know all the things I can get away with with a carbed 22R. The EFI tune for this engine has a few "what the hell" areas in it's maps that I can't access or change. I'd like a stand-alone, but those wouldn't pass visual, let alone functional tests here. So I look at mods like the Supra AFM, at least the tech shouldn't notice the difference, unless they're really sharp. Would be nice if a piggy-back unit, like the e-manage, was available for this ECU.

There is a company out there, Toyoyech or something like that, that can solder in a socket and burn a new tune to a chip, but they want your vehicle on they're dyno and they won't give you your maps. I would like that, but I would want the tuning software so I could burn my own chips.

 

I've been running the stock air box for a while to chase down some other gremlins under the hood. I sorted those out, and put the 5M AFM back on for a drive this morning. I had to turn the gear richer 3 notches (and cleared the ECU), but it runs quite nicely now.
AFRs are between 14.7 and 15.0 at idle and cruising at a constant speed. When I accelerate hard it richens up to the mid 12s, which is pretty much what I was getting before.
I have a better boost gauge now than I had when I first did the swap, and I am now getting more reliable readouts as well as the ability to view peaks. I'm getting a fuel cut when I get to 11psi boost. This would most likely not affect everyday driving because I don't really have any need to punch it that hard, but I could get it up there faster than with the factory air box and AFM. I haven't adjusted the wastegate at all, and was getting only barely 10psi when pushing it hard with the stock setup.
Another gauge that I noticed changed significantly was my fuel gauge. I was definitely getting less mileage out of my tank.
I've gotta fill up the tank, then I'll see what my MPGs really are.