Ok I see so do you know anything about the swap 20r head on22r

 

Sorry, I do not. Please Let's not highjack this mans thread.

If you would ask this question over in the 89-95 engine section of this forum I'm sure someone will be glad to give their experience/input.

 

Sorry got it. Thanks for the advice again

 

Electric fan is just a little less load on the engine. You are eliminating the stock fan and clutch. Every couple extra HP counts! Its also gives a cleaner appearance and more space to work or inspect the front side of the engine. I have also heard the argument that when you eliminate the stock fan and fan clutch that you are just putting extra load on your alternator because of the extra draw from the electric fan (so any benefit is cancelled out) That is why I upgraded the alternator to a 120 amp custom alternator. The argument goes both ways. There is a similar argument about keeping or eliminating EGR and emissions in general. I have done both in the past and now and haven't had any ill effects from it to be noted. Just a simplified cleaner looking engine bay is all I'm really after in the end. I'm not worried about overheating. Mine always ran below half even in 100 degree heat. I also installed a new Asian water pump and a LCE thermostat. I like the polished oem fit radiators just for the over all look of the dressed up engine compartment, but i just haven't read good things about them in general.

 

Ok that's strange though cause if the radiator is built to the specs of the engine people shouldn't be having that problem unless they didn't do enough research before they started manufacturing them ,at least that's what I think.

 

I read some comments about some of the polished aluminum radiators that they were glued together and had a tendency to leak after a short amount of time. Somebody here went through a couple of different brand polished ones in their build thread. A couple of people chimed in agreeing with him that they are crap and prone to leaking. Im not sure if he ever found one he was happy with.

 

Ok this is just a suggestion in jamaica where I'm from if your radiator needs rodding out we call it that's when they use like an oil check stick or something flat and long and open it up and clean each vein then when they r done they use there gas welder and something that looks like a big soldering wire u use on electrical board and stuff like that only it's bigger not the small wire wrapt on a little roll when they put the top back on tthey use the solder to seal the top all the way around and it goes into any little space cause it's hot and it's running like water till it dries it just looks shiny so maybe u can do the same thing buy it then get the aluminium thing and reseal it all over top and bottom and if that's all the problem people have with it if u do it right u will be fine

 

I decided it wasn't that important to me to get a new radiator. Just sticking with stock for now. Not worth the extra money and hassle to buy a new radiator that needs to be modded.

 

So true

 

looking to change my valve cover again. I have a 9 hole valve cover now and I found a 7 hole valve cover I want for my 1994 22re. The 7 hole and 9 hole valve covers fit the same on 22re right?

 

All r series valve covers will physically bolt to the head. Some don't have the bolt holes in the correct spots for parts that bolt to the valvecover though.


The electric fan parasitic value vs clutch fan argument is only valid if the electric fan is always on. It is no drag on any sustem when it is off. Duh.

 

I'm gonna sell the polished valve cover if anyone is interested. Too much work to keep it clean.

 

Nice VC choice! I have been eyeing this for some time too, along with their distributor street tune up kit and billet wire loom kit... I do appreciate LCE's logo, but I want to swap the 22R-E sticker back on too.

 

So what's so special about that valvecover?

 

Nothing it's just already powder coated and it matches the intake I just installed. For the price I would end up paying the same to have one done myself.

 

The LCE sticker adds 10 HP!

 

I wasn't sure if there was something special I wasn't seeing.

I thought your intake was a custom powder coat not the off the shelf color of the valvecover?

 

The new intake is a dark gray almost black. The new valve cover is black it isn't going to be a perfect match, but it will look nice. I might paint Toyota in silver. While working on the new upgrades I just noticed how much work it is to keep the polished Valve cover clean and looking nice. I like the look of the polished valve cover more, but the maintenance isn't for me. I think the powder coated finish will hold up better over time.

 

Making progress....But we are taking our time. My friend had some issues at his shop. Water main broke and work on my truck got delayed. We also Had to wait on a few parts we needed along the way. After we installed the new motor mounts it gave the LCE headers the clearance they needed to clear the torsion bar. Now there is a full finger gap between the header flange and the torsion. The flange for the header used to sit on the bar and clank against it. It was super annoying. That shouldn't be an issue anymore. The new motor mounts were about a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch taller than the old ones. We still ground down the edge of the header flange for a little more clearance, but we didn't have to. When I called LCE to complain about how close the headers were to the torsions they suggested changing the motor mounts so that's what we did and it did the trick! Initially I wasnt going to change the motor mounts because they looked ok to me. I'm glad we did! Intake is on, electric fan, whole new power steering system, alternator, silicone radiator hoses, now we are moving on to the rear shocks. We decided not to do the 5" drop blocks and leave it at 4". Rear bumper is coming off also and we still need to install the 4 runner mirrors. Waiting on the new valve cover to come in still. Should look and run real nice when its all done!