I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup 2wd base with EGR. I have been looking at Headers for it. I noticed my truck has an extra tube that connects from the exhaust manifold and goes around the back of the head. Is this for the EGR? I also noticed my truck does not have a primary 02 sensor in the manifold. You can see where one could have gone but it looks blocked off. As far as I know my truck only has the secondary 02 before where the cat would be. Is this normal? There are different headers for 2wd and 4wd some have primary 02 some dont. I dont see anything with the tube going around the head. What do i need to know before I make this purchase? What do you guys recommend. I recently changed my exhaust muffler to a Dynomax. Ever since I installed the new muffler the truck back fires after decelerating on long highway drives. I always liked the dynomax in other toyota projects I built because they are not obnoxiously loud. The backfires originally were very lite and not a big deal. Today the backfire sounded like a gun shot and my check engine light came on. I am thinking I have an exhaust leak. I also dont have a cat its just a straight pipe to the muffler. It has always been deleted even before I changed the muffler. I had no issues prior to changing the muffler even with the straight pipe.
I am thinking I need to buy block off plates and bypass the EGR and then buy a header without the primary 02 sensor. Im in Florida. We dont have to pass emissions control, so I am not worried about eliminating EGR if necessary. If i eliminate EGR do I also eliminate the sensors on top of the valve cover? What needs to be done here to install a new header? I have seen some pics on here of people who welded there own pipe in for the EGR. I dont want to bother with all that.
The extra tube is for EGR. You should have an o2 sensor before the CAT and I think CA models had a downstream o2 sensors (mine does). The upstream sensor tells the engine how it's running, so if you're missing yours then its likely hurting performance. I don't know enough about how it all works, but I'd assume the missing o2 sensor could be the reason for backfiring...like making it run rich (or even effect when the EGR turns on/off?) backfire can also be caused by exhaust leak like you mentioned. I can't help with de-smog and EGR removal, never done it since I'm in CA. Personally I see more advantages of having it working properly than disadvantages.
Thank you for that info..So apparently I am missing an o2 sensor. The one on the manifold looks like it was welded closed and there is another one where the cat would have been. Can anybody chime in on the pros and cons of bypassing EGR? Should I just replace the stock manifold and put the o2 sensor back in the stock location?
how is that dynomax muffler? mellow tone or raspy? sound at idle and at speed? where"d you get yours?
I ordered it on ebay. Same can I always used on my toyotas. It is mellow at idle with a light performance sound at speed. I always preferred them over Flowmasters or glass packs which I thought were too loud for my taste. Been there done that. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360765865702?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
You won't see any performance gains by deleting the EGR. The EGR isn't supposed to be functioning at WOT and is equal in performance to a non-EGR engine at those RPMs/speeds because it turns off. Below that however, the EGR is mixing exhaust with fresh air, which helps with clean burn and fuel economy for the most part. You may see an ever so slight performance gain by removing it, but it'd be so small it's not worth it IMO. Gotta remember that this is still a 22re, reliable yes, but one of the worst engines in regards to the price of performance parts vs actual gains.
I always delete all the emissions crap since it's not required in my area and it's just in the way. I'm running an lce "street" header. Nice unit but it's expensive. After running almost every brand on the market I've come to appreciate the lce unit.
You like the LCE more than a Doug Thorley? I come from 4wd crowd where I'd rather have power at lower RPMs and "from a stop" driving. It's my understanding that the Tri-y (stock layout) is better for low-end and the 4-1 design is better for high RPM and actually hurts low RPM power. When I did my 22re exhaust I couldn't afford the Thorley and didn't know about Stan's headers at the time, so I followed a thing I read a LONG time ago that the stock exhaust manifold was better than all the cheaper headers since they typically don't crack or warp the mounting flange and actually have decent flow to them as a factory item - the restriction is the stock downpipe/Y-pipe since it's a separate component and a slightly smaller diameter. So what I did was let some A-hole conveniently chop my exhaust upstream from my o2 sensor while he also stole my CAT but left the rest of my stock exhaust alone. So I had the shop install 2" pipe up close to the "Y", then a 2" magnaflow cat, then went up to 2.25 all the way out with a magnaflow muffler. I can toss a golf ball through the whole thing, so it definitely flows better. I dunno if I actually gained anything significant but I can feel the truck breathes a little better on the highway. If anything I probably lost MPGs because I tend to stomp it more with the slightly deeper tone.
For what I do yes, I like lce over thorley. I ran a thorley on my old wheeler and it was fine but in my autocross truck bottom end torque isn't high on my list of cares.
I ran a pace setter and didn't have any of the problems people talk about.. I did bead blast mine and paint with vht high temp from the start though, never had the flange warp or leak and I didn't have any welds crack or look less than stellar, and it fit the truck great (77, lowered 3")
If you don't have emission testing then I'd yank all that crap off. If the EGR has 3 wires on the sensor then you'll need to put a resistor in the wiring to keep the check engine light off.
Ok so this is where I am at as far as figuring out what needs to be done to delete EGR from my truck so i can install a header. I see 2 air injection block off plates that I need for the exhaust manifold and then 2 block off plates for the intake side 1 is the actual EGR block off plate on the cylinder head and the other is the EGR block off plate on the intake itself. Am I missing anything here? The last 2 images are the plates I am ordering. Do I need anything else? I dont think I need the cross over block plate on the back of the head am I right?
I think you DO need the crossover block plate. Look at these pics: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/pic-request-egr-passage-way-22re-head-224780/ On my 20r, the PO installed pretty much all of those LCE block plates when he de-smogged everything.
The crossover plate isn't needed unless you like spending money. Blocking off both ends of the passage negates it. There is a writeup in the how to or tech area whatever the fawk it's called towards the bottom of the main page. Basically plug all vacuum lines but a line for the fuel pressure regulator and leave the brake booster and pcv lines. Everything else can go.