Hey guys I replaced all of my suspension bushings over the weekend. I put every thing back together and lowered the truck and now the front end sits on the bump stops. I put the adjusting nuts same height as before. I haven't touched the spline towards the rear of the torsion bar. Once I cranked the torsion bar all the way in it still sits really low. The bars are on the right side of the truck I didn't mark where the torque arm came off the front of the bar. I have messed with it for a while now and the torque arm only seems to slide on in one spot. The bolt that goes through the LCA has a toothless spot but no corresponding part on the torque arm. Somethings not lined up I guess? Im still having trouble with this. Here is a picture of my truck with the adjuster bolt maxed out: Heres the only way the arms fit onto the torsion bar does this look right? How do I set up the lca bolt where does this toothless part line up with: Any help would be great the project is coming along great this is the last thing to finish! Thanks, Andrew
The pic with the anchor arm/torsion bar/torque arm on the floor, is that the passenger or driver side?
According to my manual, and trying to remember when I did it. The torque arm should fit over the end of the main LCA bolt. Believe this is the only thing it will line up with. If you can't get the torque arm back on the LCA you may need to loosen the LCA bolt so you can turn the splined/smooth area till it lines up. That's another question, did you remove the LCA? It doesn't state whether the torque arm should be attached to the LCA before installing the torsion bar or not. I want to say I tried it with the arm attached and I couldn't get the torsion bar back into it. So I had to align the torsion bar with the marks ( the ones you didn't do I believe ) and then attach the torque arm/torsion bar to the LCA. I'd try putting the arm on first though, cause I don't think I ever pulled the torsion bar out of the anchor arm. Then align the marks on the torsion bar to the anchor arm. Then adjust until bolt protrusion is same as before removal. Hope any of this helps.
Hmmm... I wish I could remember what I did but it was about 20 years ago when I changed my bars. But... Aren't the torsion bars toothed or keyed to only go in just one way on both ends? I replaced my front 1/2-ton torsions with 1-ton torsions so I know I couldn't have marked the ends to go back in "the same way". I didn't have any problems; I loosened the tension bolts, unbolted parts, bolted new parts back on, and tightened up the tension bolts. Then just fiddled with the tension bolt to set ride height. Oh, and I did not have to remove the LCA. Maybe a previous owner rekeyed the torsion bars?
So the anchor arm will slide off the bar a little and there's only one real way it'll smoothly go on. There's a notch on the anchor arm where the toothless part will line up with! It's there you just gotta play with the bar, anchor arm and the torque arm.
Yea, that's where I mentioned that the highlighted spot in this photo has to line up with the original posts highlighted photo to get the torque arm back on the LCA, which may require rotating the LCA bolt.
Thanks for all of the responses I have been very busy with school and work. So basically you guys confirmed that I wasn't seriously messing anything up I guess my bar is tired or something not completely sure. I got my grinder with cut off wheel out and grinded a new master spline slot on the torsion bar. Skliping two notches in the bar and grinding off the third from the orginal master key lock in the direction that allows more preload. It Worked perfectly my adjusting bolt is now about half of the way threaded through the ajd./locking nuts. Plenty of room to adjust up or down as needed. I know torsion bars are fairly rigid but can fail. Do you think this increases the stress on the bar and the likely hood of it breaking? I haven't over raised it and it seems to ride nice. Ill post some pictures tomorrow! Thank you! Andrew
