It should be a w55, came out of a 2wd 22re efi model. ratio is super close if they are compared side by side.

w58 is the trans that everyone wants.. not sure I really want to shed the funds for that.
Would you happen to know if the casting is the same in w55-w58? I'm sure a gear/sincro swap would be easier approach.

 

I wouldn't doubt that the guts are in fact interchangeable. Call marlin of marlincrawler.com I'm sure he'd know and likely have a source for parts too if foot a doesn't still make them.

W58's are out there for a reasonable price. You could always source of from a Lexus and swap tail housings with the W55 if the newer W58 input is the right length.

 

Where did u happen to find door pins and bushings? My 77's bushings are shot and my local toyota dealership says they aren't available.

 

here:
72 97 Toyota Hilux RN30 LN40 LN50 LN85 Door Hinge Pin Kit LN60 LN100 LN106 LN111 | eBay

Idk If you ever installed door pins, if not, you'll find out they are a **** to do. I had to drill the hinge and the new brass bushings to fit them.. you also have to be careful not to bend the hinge. Anyways, once its done then you have to adjust the door gaps. I only did the upper hinges on mine. One thing is that they are tight and door fits much better now.. Worth the time, but be ready to fondle.

 

Ok cool i got that kit awhile back but i didnt wanna tear it apart to modify it to fit them if the OE ones were available. But ill go ahead and tear em down since those are what u used. Thanks for the info man. I appreciate it! Truck is lookin killer btw

 

Alright, time for an update.
Gutted the engine bay. Send all fasteners to get Zinc coated.
Finally got my laser 22r block back from the machine shop. Got honed, polished crank. New rings and bearings.
I had the 20r head milled to 3.130 to match 22re deck height, and got a valve job while I was there.
Also got some seals for the doors I had been waiting for since march.
Here's the pics, enjoy







stock 20r head


Back from the shop, valve job & milled



Started in the bay, first > hood removed




Gutted the front and removed fenders to avoid any damage. Then Inspiration..




Ready for assembly




Skip a few step, pistons in, Head studs installed


Followed by mocking up the head, cam, rocker assembly and timing components.






Used O.S.K dual row timing conversion from LCE


Rebuilt rocker assembly with new rockers to match new cam






Next step was to test the internal clearance since head was milled to an extreme level and more aggressive cam is being used. Playdoh on the piston adjusted the valve lash, spun the engine few full rotation and full disassembly.. we are good to go. No contact.

 

Final assembly, I was pretty happy to install the EGR block off.. no more emission EVER!



All new exhaust studs, and intake studs as well ( except 1 stubborn dick) Not worth the risk to pull it.




shorty mounted


Ditched the thermostatic fan for a flex fan.. that's the fat piece of aluminum sticking out of the water pump


boom


And that's how it sits as of now. Still need to paint or powder the valve cover and pan.
Trans is coming home this evening.
Need new mounts and waiting to get my fasteners back from zinc.

 

very Nice !

 

That flex fan is going to do nothing but rob power. You'd be ahead to run the stock fan since it's not under power unless needed. It isn't as exciting looking though.

 

Quote "Flex-a-lite high performance flex fans are designed to give you maximum airflow at low RPM, and the least amount of engine loading at high RPM. Less resistance at highway speeds equals more horsepower and better gas mileage. Flex fans pull additional air through the radiator at low RPM when the speed of the vehicle isn't enough to cool the engine's coolant system. At higher RPM, when the vehicle's speed forces ample air through the radiator, the fan blades flatten out, resulting in less power being used to spin the fan "

I'm not the engineer that designed them, but their design have been used for decades.. I trust the product although I'm aware electric fan would have been the best choice. It'll go in for now since the project has to get done..

 

I've used them before and my results varied from the rig running a bit warmer to a noticeable drop in power. I couldn't run one if I wanted to anyway since they aren't allowed in any class under scca rules.


I have a steel shroud off of your generation of truck I'm going to work over to mount a flex-a-lite 116 electric fan. Cheap and easy if I ever get off my butt to do it.

 

thats an other thing, I want to retain the shroud.. I'm not sure it will fit. If not,,. its gettting returned for an
e-fan

 

sexy time.

 

Pulled the ol 20r out beginning of this week. Here's the work in the bay.

#1, engine out


#2, bay pressure washed


#3, Bay hand buffed and waxed (only left side of bay done), Painted frame and booster


#4, That's how it sits. Still have right side to get done

 

Coming along real nice. Inspiration for me to get off my ass

 

Here some update.

Did what I could on the bay, battery acid made some damage.. but its better than it was.. Character.


Picked up the cover and pan









In the hole, finally.









On the list, Wiring, Trans install, Transmissin crossmember fab, Fab compressor mount And exhaust... and more.

 

I envy you sir. Lol

 

Very clean truck, it will be a blast with that hybrid in it.

I must say though, I agree with White Trash about the flex-fan. They are second only to fixed fans in inefficiency, excess noise, and excess water pump wear. I understand needing to install it to get the truck back on the road, but I would definitely start looking at a clutch fan setup soon.

 

Thanks, It better be!! haha

So let gets back on the fan subject. I Don't know much about the flex fans but I also don't believe statement that aren't backed with facts.. So What makes them inefficient? How was that proven?
I have a hard time believing it would excessively wear the water pump as it spin the same amount of turns, theoretically there's no side force exerted on the shaft.
The only reason it would wear the pump is that is would be unbalanced or create a vibration therefor wear the seal prematurely.

The excess noise hear is most likely the amount of air pulled thru at low Rpm which is what the fan is design to do..

I still have the thermostatic oem fan assembly, I could always use it. I'm leaning
more twd a e-fan.

 

I will freely admit that I am not an engineer and my statements are anecdotal based on my observations, but that said, here are my thoughts on the fan issue:

A flex fan will only break away above a certain RPM, and even then it doesn't ever truly freewheel. The thermostatic fan clutch freewheels below a certain temp as well as above a certain RPM. That means that the flex fan runs in many situations where it is unneeded.

The inefficiency comes from the fan running on cold start (which causes more fuel to be burned as there is additional load as well as increased warmup times) as well as running at high-speed low RPM (long freeway cruises for instance) were the airflow over the radiator would cool a thermally triggered e-fan or a thermostatic fan clutch and shut it off.

The excess wear is also caused by the unneeded operation. The flex fan actually does spin much more than the clutch fan since the clutch fan is usually freewheeling in normal operation and therefore not putting any significant load on the water pump.

I have been pleasantly surprised by how well the stock Toyota cooling system works on my truck. I run a cheapo Chinese aluminum and plastic radiator, an OEM Toyota 180* thermostat, a stock Aisin clutch fan that I replaced the silicone fluid in, and cheap parts store green coolant. My clutch fan doesn't even engage on days when it's below 50*, and on hotter days it only engages when I've been sitting at a light for awhile or when the aircon is on.

I have run electric fans on many vehicles and I do like them, but over the years I've come up with a pet theory that a clutch fan could theoretically be more efficient than an e-fan due to the fact that the clutch fan will break away at higher RPM, whereas the e-fan will still be drawing power from the engine via the alternator. Also, I suspect that the inherent inefficiency of any alternator is greater than the inefficiency of the liquid in the fan clutch.

The issue with that is that I have never done any back-to-back economy testing with a clutch and e-fan since all my e-fan swaps were also part of an engine swap.

The one major benefit of an e-fan is the ability to tie it's relay into the a/c switch. There is a definite lag in between the time I turn on my aircon and the time my clutch engages from the added heat of the condenser. In the Arizona desert that issue alone would cause me to personally lean towards an electric fan.