I need a little help with a drag racing project.

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by sicksilverado, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. sicksilverado

    sicksilverado Member

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    Sorry if this is a dumb question. What is that bar that comes off the front of the lower control arm(towards the front bumper area)? Do I need it? I'm trying to shed any unnecessary weight I can. Also, is there an easy way to install coilovers in the front? I know I'll have to fab up an upper mount, but will a coilover spring actually fit through the upper control arms? If I need an tubular upper control arm, who can make that for me for a reasonable price?
     
  2. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    The only dumb question is a question unasked.

    The tie rod that runs forward is necessary unless you have something similar to Cando Specialties lower A arm setup. It controls forward movement of the lower control arm.

    I think that coil overs have been done, although I don't have any knowledge of how to make it happen.

    Cando also has upper tubular arms.
     
  3. NashMan

    NashMan Toyotaholic

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    the stock setup is fairly light as is
     
  4. sicksilverado

    sicksilverado Member

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    That's true. I'm just "outgunned" in the engine compartment so I was looking for any weight advantage I could get. I figured coilovers would allow me to get rid of the torsion bars and crossmember(would be replaced with a lightweight trans crossmember).
     
  5. scrub88

    scrub88 Toyotaholic

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    Like Nash said there isn't much weight to it vs the structural integrity of it ..coil overs would be nice you'll need to build a top mount that's strong enough to support the truck and beef up the lower control arm area were it mounts and get some tubular uppers .. even at that I'd still leave the lower control arm rod supports in . .. A 1uz or a v8 swap will cure the out gunned in spades
     
  6. NashMan

    NashMan Toyotaholic

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    or pull the hood, box, door's, windshield, dash bord, fenders and other miss stuff that should help
     
  7. sicksilverado

    sicksilverado Member

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    I believe you guys are right. I'll just leave the stock setup alone. I have an all aluminum v8 in there now, but it's a bit on the mild side. 5.3L LS motor with a large cam, good heads, carb setup, and a powerglide. You guys think it's possible to get this thing in the 2200lbs range(with driver)? I have lexan windows, gutted front end, gutted cab, gutted bed, gutted doors, ladder bars, lightweight wheels, lightweight racing seat, lightweight steering column, soon to have fiberglass hood, and carbon fiber driveshaft.
     
  8. Tuhd The Troll

    Tuhd The Troll Veteran

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    Have you started cutting circles out of your frame yet or grinder shaving your body panels?

    and does your class allow for forced induction or nitrous?
     
  9. SD YOTA

    SD YOTA Grand Toyotaholic

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    have you done fiberglass bedsides yet?? aluminum or composite fuel cell? carbon fiber hood? draglite wheels are pretty damn light.... start thinking heavy points you can replace with bolt ons...
     
  10. sicksilverado

    sicksilverado Member

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    I started shaving body panels, but probably won't put holes in the frame until I get a rollcage/bar in there. I'm still looking for bedsides. I got a 4 gallon plastic fuel cell. I have a set of Centerline Auto Drags...skinnies in front and fatties in back. SD YOTA, I was considering an aluminum exhaust with minimal mufflers(probably 8" bullet type). Also gonna run a minimal cooling system - small S10 radiator and single fan.
    As far as class goes, this will be more just a grudge racing truck. Our local "track" is actually a private road and the other "track" is an airport runway(both are legal racing events). Gonna run a 150-200 shot on the truck...I'm looking for mid-low 10's.
     
  11. SD YOTA

    SD YOTA Grand Toyotaholic

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    gotcha bro...

    as mentioned...... these trucks are fairly light weight. gutting the interior and windows will only get you so far but if yer going for weight, it adds up after you shave as much as possible. aluminum exhaust wont make too huge a difference. run the header into a small muffler (like a flowmaster 10 series) and dump it out the side as quick as you can turn it to run the least amount of pipe as needed.

    light weight racing seat will also be a big weight drop as some of these benches weigh a bit. if you want you can dump off your heater core, blower motor, and ac stuff (if any). anything after that man i really cant think of too much more. you start cutting into the frame though and you are messing with structural rigidity... so unless you can properly brace it with lighter weight material, cutting out frame sections is not recommended.
     
  12. standardbyker88

    standardbyker88 Grand Toyotaholic

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    If you still have it there, grind and torch away the floor coating. That thick chunky stuff on the floor inside. Probably some on the underside too. Lose he dash and panels, race seats, there isn't much to these trucks. Some pics would be awesome. I love a race truck.
     
  13. sicksilverado

    sicksilverado Member

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    I'm too ashamed to post pics. It looks like garbage right now. There's very little firewall left, most of the trans tunnel is gone. The bed is off and gutted. It's a total mess right now. I will post a pic in a few days when I get my interior done. I'm a backyard mechanic and I'm learning as I go through this project.
     
  14. standardbyker88

    standardbyker88 Grand Toyotaholic

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    Sounds fun none the less. We don't hate around here. The in progress pics are the ones that show the hidden work. I have a similar project with my dad. 440 Dakota :D
     
  15. burnzya

    burnzya Grand Toyotaholic

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    a friend of mine builds drag cars. he usually replaces the majority of the body with glass parts that he makes himself. most of the cars are full tube chassis so the interior panels are all .050 aluminum. most are bracket cars that have to make weight so after he's done he usually has to add weight back to the chassis. cages are chrome moly so the lighter wall helps drop weight.
     
  16. WARRIOR1

    WARRIOR1 Newbie

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    im wanting to go coil overs too.. my truck with a big block, powerglide and a ford 9 inch weighs 2580 without me. all steel body
     
  17. WARRIOR1

    WARRIOR1 Newbie

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  18. WARRIOR1

    WARRIOR1 Newbie

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  19. twizted1

    twizted1 Addict

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    holy sh!t thats bad ass!!
     
  20. WARRIOR1

    WARRIOR1 Newbie

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    thanks
     

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