Put my lower springs in the classified section. When I start bagging it I will be putting my 3" blocks and DJM control arms up for sale as well.

 

We were posting at the same time, LOL.. Go back a page and check my post..

 

Yeah that was just for mock up and the photo, after I added my lower shelf, extra bracing and casters I put a chain on it to hold the bottle before mounting it. I deal with accumulators at work and know all about pressure vessels being rockets.

Heres one of the machines at work, some nitrogen bottle on the wall to the right. Aircraft simulation

 

Some welds on my table





And it is not finished yet, I remounted the casters to lower it a bit and added more bracing and some cross bars to hang clamps.

 

And the tank chain and casters, sorry for the crap pic.

 

Comin along!

 

I have most everything I need to start bagging but I got a 2 week road trip coming up this Friday and don't wanna start it till after. I might be done for awhile after getting it laid out as I wanna pickup a c30 dually to bag and body on semi wheels.

 

Few more pics, some progress.



























Gettin there slowly

 

Also need some advice on wheels in the rear, what will fit with the jap bed? I have been reading old threads and running the numbers and am at a loss for a decent set of 15" wheels that look good with the right specs.

I would love to run the same wheel in a 15x6 zero offset but none such exists in my searching. What is the best backspace for a 8" or 7" wheel that will tuck width wise in the rear.

I have found plenty of 17s and 18s that have the right offset but I don't wanna drop that kinda coin on new wheels and tires, I need to fund my dually project!

 

When I ran 15x8 with a +10 offset, they sat nice but still would need to roll the fenders or even do a slight pull. The 16x8 -10 definitely needed to be pulled and kinda flared.

 

Is that where your mounting the upper bag plate?

 

Looking good Ghost! In case you didn't catch it on the static post, here's my 85 static finished. Well, almost, need to tweak torsions to get front down about 1/2"

 

Yeah I gotta figure out if a pull will work once I get it bagged, it seems like its gonna be tight. I might just bag it with the stock 14s to keep my wheel options more open for normal diameter tires, the current tires are 23" OD and there aren't many 17/18 tire choices that small that don't look funny. Didn't wanna buy new wheels AND tires but its not looking good.

Thanks for the info!

The bags are in the general area of where I want them to end up, the upper bag plates still need to be cut to length so they sit over where the bag is in that picture, they'll end up being almost 50% shorter. I am far from finished and I will be bracing the shock tower/upper arm mount back up.

Thanks!

That thing looks soooo clean, I love me a long bed and that color just looks right! You have a good looking truck there. I scraped too much if I had passengers otherwise I woulda stayed static! Love the mirrors too

 

Just seems like that bag plate is super low on the frame. Are you trying to lay frame or just be low and adjustable

 

The way it is setup right now, with these wheels/tires, it will lay the front crossmember with a little extra room. I am going to cut out the inner fenders in order to mock up the stock 26" OD tires to give me the option of larger wheels in the future. I can get an extra inch of drop if I go back to flipped balljoint as well.

Nothing is getting permanently welded up until I get the bed off, the rear notch tacked in, a new trans crossmember is made and both rails are flat on the ground. I am just getting things prepped on the front, till a friend gets here in June to help with the bed.

 

Thanks, Yea, that's why I'm getting wheels that tuck. The fronts actually scrape a lot less now that it's level. Still debating whether to stagger the depths on the wheels. Make the rear have a deeper dish than the front. Only talking an inch difference. Thoughts? Opinions?

 

Yeah I never got to level, the big scrapers were the mounts for the strut rods. I think a staggered fitment would look good but an inch isn't worth much if the cost or hassle is high. I would do it if its relatively cost efficient.



Been working on the trans crossmember today and boy was it a pain to get off without raising the cab or using a torch. I made a few extra cuts and opened up a pocket in the crossmember in order to get to the top edge with the grinder cutoff wheel.

The trans mount bushing is a little bit too tall to re-use unless I jack up the tail of the transmission up but that would change my driveshaft angles which I don't know if I want to mess with, even with the two piece driveshaft. I may end up just mounting the crossbar solidly to the trans and using isolators where the new trans crossbar mounts to the frame.









Once I move the exhaust up, unbolt the forward cross-brace and the bed off I can roll the axle out and get the frame on the ground to get a better idea on the front.

 

Crossmember done





Waiting for the welds to cool so I can install it and get the bed off later. I tried the bed bolts before finishing the crossmember but the bolts were being pretty stubborn. I hit them each with a healthy dose of PB blaster so hopefully they will be easy.

Decided I will for sure be mocking up the front and rear with my stock wheels. This will let be run a larger wheel in the future instead of these minis. I wanted to stay with these steelies but can't find an offset that will tuck between the bedsides.

 

Crossmember Install







Also going to be selling my DJM Lower control arms, Belltech 3" blocks and I still have my 3" leaf springs if you're interested let me know.

Have light scuffing in one spot each from speedbumps and dips. Paint flaking along the bottom edge and one outer hole was elongated slightly to line up with the inner support tube for the outer torsion bolt.