Thanks Byker. I'll be slapping this motor in tomorrow, I noticed the radiator hoses are different coming off the back of the timing cover on the 22r, what is the difference between these hookup spots?
My 20r setup had a hose coming off the back passenger side of the block that ran into the firewall (heater) and I'm wondering where to hook that up.

 

The timing cover I run on my early 22r block has a hole off the back on both sides. They feed my heater.

 

I'm not sure either of the back holes on the timing cover has pressurized hot coolant, does your heater get hot? I'm going to block off both and see what happens, my heater goes from the passenger side of the head thru the heater core back to the radiator currently.

I got the engine in today, just need to put the water pump on and a few hoses.

 

I got the motor in and it runs great, I'll be doing a highway run today but so far it's more responsive and pulls real nice. I've got the adj. cam gear set to 2 deg advanced, engnbldr said one degree for every thousands machined off the combined head and block. I've got about 2 thousands taken off the head and block combined.
I used royal purple for the break in, ran it for 30 minuits varying Rpms from 1500 to 2000 then dumped the oil and filter.
It looks like I spent 1350$ on this rebuild and put in a few weeks of working and waiting on parts for this build, I did my best to do as much as I could.
I had engnbldr Ted bore the block to .040 over
Remove a broken valve guide and install new one
Machined my valve seats
Replace intake and exaust valves
Helped with some of my DIY port and polish
Deck the head
I'm pretty stoked on how helpful and informative Ted is and would recomend his services to anyone with the need for a machinist or toyota engine info.

 

I heard for every 10 thousands you go one degree, but I may be wrong...

Either way, glad to hear it's running good!

 

Yes I think your right, 10 thousandths = 1 degree
After driving on the highway I would say it was worth it,
Had to change some jets in the weber.
This is what I'm running as of today, it's running a little rich but as soon as I step on the throttle it dives to 18/20 stumbles then recovers to 14 as I'm accelerating. From what I've read there's no adjustment for the accelerator pump?!

Idle 60-60
Main 155-150
Air 170-160

 

looks good man, did the same work on my intake. you should have ~12.5afr wot and ~14.5 cruising. Are you using a wideband 02 for tuning?

 

Yea I have the wide band setup, I'm starting to understand how it works. At first I was trying to keep it at 14.7 all the time but I think your right about letting it be richer when on the pedal. It still stumbles and leans out at first but quickly recovers and holds around 12afr while accelerating.
I haven't seen anyone change the Pump Jet (accelerator jet) and I'm going to order a few to try em out. Stock is 50 so I'll get 55 & 60 maybe a 45.
Ive been playing with timing and it seems to like 11 btdc seems to be its favorite, 13 was awesome after 2k Rpms but rough off the line.

I found this awesome page on weber tuning, real easy explanations, check it out
Classic Inlines - Weber DGV Adjustments & Tuning

 

I found accelerator pump jets, haven't seen anyone talk about changing them. I'm still getting a temporary lean out when I rev the engine at any Rpms. Here's an awesome explanation on weber tuning, perhaps better than the last one.

http://www.scuderiatopolino.com/TuningofWebercarburetorsrev2.pdf

 

I have heard of 4x guys changing accel pump jets and even running dual accel pumps. I think they only use dual pumps on synchronous carbys though.

 

I posted a rejetting guide on the site here a while back. There were replies not long ago. I stepped my mains and idles up a few sizes for primary and secondary bores. Also cut the choke horns off. I never messed with the accel pump tho. I haven't hooked up the AF gauge I got yet so I'm not sure the actual results but the idle screw is best right about 2 turns out which the book says is prime. I mess with plug gaps to fine tune my AF as best as I can for now.

It all makes a big help. These are a pretty big motor for the carb so they need more fuel. Plus Toyota motors have pretty good heads so their volumetric efficiency is high that some other 4 bangers, also wanting a bit more fuel. Even on a fairly mild 21R 2.0l I built it liked the bigger jetting.

 

its been awhile, Ive driven the new motor about 2k miles, still consuming a little oil and seems to have oil mist escaping around the valve cover breather.
Recently i had a weird thing happen, i was driving down the road all normal and the rig seemed to be running out of gas and my A/F meter said it was going lean then it died. it would not start and i figured either the pump was ****ting out on me or the oil sending unit was telling the fuel pump not to pump.
after cooling down the truck started up and i got home as quick as possible.
i checked the fuel delivery and it was getting gas at the carb
took the carb apart and found bits of brass in the emulsion tubes (from all the re jetting i guess some bits of jet got lost in there)
truck still would not run so i checked spark and found no spark at plugs then also at coil
tested the msd blaster coil that had been working good for a few months but found my secondary resistance was way too low as per the book. swapped it out for the original which passed the testing procedure.
still not running
i found a used working ignition control module on ebay for 40$ with a coil and bracket included, waiting on it in the mail.
any ideas on what else it could be?

 

After replacing the ignition control module it has been running consistently good, I'm up to 5000 miles and still consuming alittle oil.
I'm looking for a bushing kit of some sort, any ideas?
While I'm driving down the road it feels alittle loose, she goes straight down the road no problem but when I'm going over a rough surface or a bump especially in a turn the truck does the cabbage patch and I've got to compensate with the steering wheel to keep it on the road.
What's the best place to start, shocks or bushings?

 

I bought a full suspension kit (prothane) on ebay for $83.00. They fit and are an easy install, apart from the torsion bar bushing which I haven't gotten to yet. They improve the "tightness" of the vehicle response maybe 10-15 %, and arent harsh

 

nice job, good tech. did you run the 20R hardline coolant tube on the driverside which bolts in 2 places to the motor mount and has the branch on it for the heatercore? And did you figure out where to get the coolant from to send it to the inlet on your heater core? I'm doing a 20/22r hybrid swap in my 79 and I noticed this difference in the 22r as well. I didn't have heat before I tore the head off and I'm assuming it was from the way it was routed (82 4x2 22r tall block).

 

Great write up.I just got a 77 Hilux a few weeks back.After reading this thread I plan on doing a build on my 20R.

 

this is the bypass tube i'm talking about coming from the u shaped coolant hardline that bolts on the driverside 20r motor mount

 

lmk when u need that built 84 22RE head

 

The two hard lines coming off the back of the timing cover are plugged and don't seem to mind, I cut off the hard lines 2 inches down from the timing cover connection and hose clamped a rubber cap on for now. the original heater core source was from the passenger side of the 20r head just under the intake manifold and I just hooked it up there again. Heater core return went back into the radiator, making it mostly stock.
The heater works and gets toasty in the little cab when it's cranked up.

 

I've got about 7k on the motor and it's having some issues.
The distributer had a faulty vac advance so I swapped it out with another I had sitting around. I've had an over pressurized radiator and cooling system for a while now, every once in a while my overflow canister is brimming full and the rad hoses are rock hard all the time even after a full cool down.
Some oil in the radiator but no coolant in the oil, did the test on the radiator to see if combustion gasses were in coolant and it passed.
Everyone says blown headgasked but I'm not so sure. I swear coolant is escaping around the oil pump but not sure how it got there.