I am thinking of de-smogging little Stewie. I never really got rid of this problem and it might be related to all that junk that serves no purpose where I live. I have to say that I have not driven it for almost 6 months now (and it is still snowing, I can't believe it) Worst winter ever So I will not tackle it today, but once the weather clears up I will have to spend a little quality time with Stewie so I might as well do that. I think it would be pretty straight forward right? Disconnect and remove the pump (not in pic). Remove all hoses, the canister and anything connected to it. Plug all holes on carburator and engine. Are there any tips or concerns? And will it actually make a difference?
Where the plug it from the wiring harness goes, I've read putting a small capacitor so it doesn't code. There is a how to thread posted up. In the how to section. Other than that take it all out and throw it in the trash.
If your going to desmog it, take it all! Take the tube off the top of the manifold and the two things that are on the end of it on the other side, and everything else you mentioned. When I did mine it ran a lot smoother, and looks a lot better! And no, it won't throw a code, it's too old for that
Remove catalytic conv. Egr valve and air pump,Fabricate a block plate for the side of the head and intake. 3/8 fuel line from tank vent @ charcoal canister and run it back into passenger frame rail or bypass and put a breather on the tank. Don't want to be venting fuel vapor under the hood! Remove all vacuum lines except brake booster, pcv and distributor advance. Optional: support engine with a floor jack unbolt passenger motor mount and remove air pump bracket, cut bracket and place piece between motor mount and block or use spacers/washer stacks, remove tstv from head and intake and replace with pipe plugs for a cleaner look.
Wow, this is getting or complicated then I thought. Is it even worth the trouble? Don't tell me this thing has a catalytic converter.
Not positive about light duty trucks but all usdm vehicles model year 1975 and newer under a certain gvwr have manditory catalytic converter(s).
The first generation of catalytic converters (catalyst coated pellets) were highly inefficient. I have a 1979 Celica from which I removed the CC and installed non-smog headers and 2" exhaust. My gas mileage increased 15% (sounds impressive but really, only went up from 20MPG to 23MPG). 1975 was the first year for some manufacturers to install CCs so I would check to see if your truck even has one and if it is the original factory one.
It's super simple! It sounds like a lot(it kinda is) but it's easy! It's easier if you pull the intake manifold off to get at those pieces, the couple bucks for a gasket are worth the time and effort of bending every which way to get the thing off from under it. It shouldn't have a cat, my 77 didn't..
Throw in a Weber and ditch all the emissions stuff all together. Your truck will run better, though louder. Here's my experience --> http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/maintenance-repair-22/help-weber-install-emissions-removal-18521/
I might consider that. So it runs smoother? Not that it's important but do you think It's more efficient too (as in MPG)? And use your thread as a guide. Did you get a Weber 32/36 carb? Did it come as a kit? Did you need anything else. Where did you order it? I see that you did not remove the Charcoal canister. I know it serves a purpose as far as venting the fuel tank, but others do remove it like eighty_D says.
My stock carb was performing terribly, so I purchased the 32/36 kit with electric choke here --> Redline Kit Toyota 20R 22R Weber Carburetor 32 36 w Genuine European Weber | eBay These kits with the directions are almost dummy proof. I also watched this video to build confidence --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6YLjbYwe_I I purchased this EGR block plate kit --> EGR Block Plate Kit - 20R/22R(Carb. Only) and the plugs I mentioned in my thread, two 3/8 in(Watts LFA-773) and one 1/2 in(Watts LFA-259) plugs that I purchased from Lowes. I also replaced the nylon hose elbow/barb that came from Weber with one that fit the existing hose(Watts A-295). I used a few vacuum caps with hose clamps from Pep Boys. I also had to fabricate another block plate to remove a coolant line to the old carb. This depends on which carb you have. It runs much smoother and my gas mileage has improved though I have yet to calculate an exact number. I was only getting 14-15 MPG before with the old carb in city driving, but this has improved drastically even though I'm driving a little more aggressively with my engine running so well again. Yes, I left the charcoal canister for venting. I'm far from an expert and I'd never changed a carburetor on a car/truck before, but it was simple enough with the directions from Weber and the great help here on this forum.
I heard from a buddy of mine that you can remove the charcoal canister and cap the line at the tank if you use a vented gas cap..
