I am sure at some point soon I am going to want to roll my fenders. I have 2wd fenders. I have heard they roll out pretty good. I have seen fender rolling tools that bolt onto the hub and have a skateboard wheel looking thing that rolls around the wheel well opening. I have also seen it done with a piece of pipe rolled over the tire prying out on the inside of the fender. Does anyone have any experience with this or advice they can share? Is it worth renting the tool or will a piece of 1 1/2" pipe do the job? Thanks for any help.
Its definatly worth renting the tool. If its your first time doing it be prepared to do a little body work. Its really not a good idea to use a peice of tubing, unless you dont really care.
No, I care a lot. I searched long and hard for these dang fenders. I don't want to screw them up now. I will plan on renting one. Thanks for the advice.
watch this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDTK9IjKIYU&feature=channel_page i prefer the bat, followed by the body hammer.
damn nuff, i got the volume turned up nice and loud so i didn't miss anything..... at least the sound effects made me laugh.
That was great! I love how he randomly pulls out a pipe from the drivers side, reminds me of a little road rash action.
i slightly massaged the fender edges on Mac's truck to clear steering. the rears on these 3 gen trucks are easy since you can adjust the fender brace up top to flare out 1 1/2 from the 2wd setting. Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-06-21
Are you looking to add a flare, or just roll the lip? If you don't want to fork out the $250 or so for the tool, I recommend using only a hammer and body block. This gives you much more control over the bend than you can get with a bat or pipe. The other thing I wonder is how will the fender roller tool even work with our trucks since the opening isn't a perfect half circle? I start the same way the guy in the video did, except that I slowly work my way from one end to the other folding in completely in multiple steps. A minimum of 4 or 5 passes. This doesn't stress the paint as much and is more likely to keep the paint from chipping. Before trimming the inner fender liner tabs. After trimming and before rolling. After rolling the rears. I just realized that I don't have any pics of the fronts rolled, but they look like the rears do. I didn't roll all the way down, so that the lip still gives the panel some rigidity. It looks much cleaner than leaving the tabs and lip exposed, and is so easy that I'm not sure why more of the show trucks haven't done it.
That looks really good! Now I have conflicting information. To go with the tool or not... It is $40 to rent it, but if I can use a hammer and make it look as good as you did then why not. It looks good to me. Maybe the roller tool is more important for a more exaggerated flare? I'm only trying to fit 17"s, I just want as much turning ability as possible.
Well, I would still use the arguement that the roller may not work easily (if at all) with our fender opening. The shape isn't going to easily allow rolling from a single pivot point. The last time I checked, circles didn't have big flat spots on them. For $40 you can buy a great body hammer and block set, valuable tools to have around. I will admit though, that I used a small ball peen hammer (flat end) and a scrap block of steel I had lying around, so it didn't cost me a dime. These are the mods I like....
Old post reasurection. Need tips on just folding the inside lip up but not affecting the outside of the fender. Watched video on silent but looked like he used some type of body hammer and his hand. Is this an ok method or is someway better. Appreciate any advice.
I use a wooden baseball bat. Break it off above where you hold it. I start with the skinny end working it side to side. Start by folding the lip over flat with the fender. I then pinch those edge a bit with pliers and a towel. Then I start tipping the bat upward and bending the lip outward and I usually pull the entire fender opening outward too. I've done a few this way and it works great. I did the front and rear of my 78 that way. They got lots of flex. The 89-95 has a bed brace inside the top of the wheel well. Has two holes. Undo the bolt, use a scissor jack and to push the sides out and bolt it back up.
Posted same question in other thread, but can anyone tell me the distance they have between their tire and fender with the wheels tucked and no rubbing.
