I would like to use n50? 2wd front rotors and v6 4 pot calipers. I was told I would need the control arms, spindle, caliper bracket, caliper, brake lines and rotors.

At this point could I just swap torsion adjusters/mounts and use the newer t bars as well?

What year trucks are best to source parts and should I change the master cyl and/or prop valve?

 

OP- I just started looking into this upgrade as well-so I hope your still out there! Hoping to see if you've learned any additional info since you posted this...

Google searching and came across several options for the 2wd 88-93(?) retrofits.

From experience you can fairly easily swap a 89 vintage (88-93 2wd) front suspension onto a 79-83 chassis. You will need upper control arms along with the spindles/brakes and I want to say the tie rods...Been a few years since I swapped a Belltech lowered setup from an 89dx onto my 80 sr5, but the biggest issue I remembered was that the torsion bars won't swap over, different splines and lengths, but the rest bolts up and also adds 3/4" per side to boot!

Now for the internet hearsay...

All say to upgrade the master cylinder when upgrading. 1" bore suggested at even stage1

Stage 1 = F18Q calipers and discs (from 88-93 longbed/SR5-longer/wider pad and a little bit bigger disk, 1/8-5/16 bigger OD)

Stage 2 = 1 ton 2wheel (not dually)brakes, these have 5 lugs and up to dual pistons

stage 3 = Ford Crown Vic or Nissan 300Z bits with custom caliper brackets

Stage 4(race) = Willwood among others.



I need a stage 1 to possibly stage 2 now, as I am running 15" wheels and have swapped in stock 89 spindles etc. The others will all need 16-17" wheels to clear the calipers. My need is not for the amount of speed to reduce, but the fact I'm running 31x10.50 tires on these 15's. I need to replace my brakes now as the rotors are warped so I figured I'd upgrade.

CAN ANYONE ASSIST ME IN DETERMINING WHAT EXACTLY THE DUAL PISTON SET REQUIRES?

If I go with 1 ton parts, will it really all just bolt on? I need to know cause I'm ready to make purchases.

Shawn K

 

Not sure, I have sourced a complete truck to nab suspension bits off of. If I am correct the frames are identical so swapping lower arms and adjusters should make it able to run the newer t bars. I was told newer spindles and upper arms 2wd disks and V6 4WD 4 piston calipers would make the best budget setup. Its winter here in AK and I have no garage so I am wating for weather. Hope I can use newer torsions as I want to use sway-a-way bars.

 

I looked at a breakdown of the 79-83. the 88-93 arms swap, but it is simpler to keep the stock torsion and the little arm that bolts to the arm(torsion arm?) The torsion bars are longer from 84-?), so cutting old torsion adjusting assys off and relocating, although achievable, wasn't practical.

Also swap in the beefy swaybar from the 88, like 3x's bigger than my stock 80. This held 'sway away'.

I will be flying through next week btw, on my way up to Barrow... work trip.

 

The difference in t bar length is something like 1/8" I'm hoping it will bolt together without Fab work. There is only one place I've found that have the <83 bars and they are 3x the price as 84+. Later model sway bars are bigger? I am trying to piece together a budget "sport" suspension instead of just lowering as I drive hard and don't want to pogo off the bump stops. Barrow? Cold place. Hopefully this cold snap will be over, -35° right now. If you have a layover in Fairbanks we could grab a beer and compare notes.

 

All I remember from the swap is it wasn't worth the time to swap on the later torsion too.. because the returns were only minimal. With the Belltown 2" drop spindles and the super beefy sway bar (1/2" or 5/8" compared to 3/4" on the heavier 89 and up trucks) I was not bouncing on bumpstops but I did have a bunch of issues with the steering arm angles. Pay close attention to these when you build it....steering should be close to level at chosen ride height. A decent set of drop shocks and replace all the bushes with poly and there you go.

Only a 1 hour layover both ways in FB... otherwise I'd take you up on the beer and a chat!

 

that's the plan, I am going to try and swap t bars as well because I want the increased spring rate in the front. I am only lowering 2" front 3" rear so steering geometry should be okay. would you recommend spindles over cranking torsions for 2" drop? I want usable travel but am worried about clearance at full compression. Alaskan roads are nasty and I don't want to rip something off at 100mph