hello this will be my first thread, not sure if this has been asked before but I couldn't find it, I have a 93 pickup 2wd, I was wondering how low I could go without have to c notch the frame, it's my dd, so I don't wanna do any major suspension mods, just give it a little better stance, I'll be puttin 15x8 wheels on it, not sure on tire size yet . Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I believe that running 4" blocks or bigger will require a c-notch in order to not bottom out. I too have a 93 2wd and I am looking at buying a 3"/3" djm lowering kit.
I ran 4" blocks and no notch. All you need to do is shave the rubber bump stops. Then just crank the torsion bars. Easiest and cheapest way to drop it. Can do all of that with basic tools in a few hours. BUT make sure you DO NOT get aluminum lowering blocks. I learned the hard way. They look really nice because of the price but are not safe by any means.
So if I go with 2"-3" blocks I'll be fine?..and where is a good place to get blocks from ? Thanks for the replies!!
You wouldn't need to do anything if you went 3" or less. There is a guy on this site named "beefed taco" little speedy but you truly get what you pay for.
Wheels don't mean much. It's the tires that are the big deal. If you get a larger tire you might deal with rubbing issue when lowered. What's the reason for going a 9" wide tire? That's a little excessive.
personally, the most drop i would run without needing a notch would be 4" all around. you can run a 4" block... i just removed the factory bumpstops and placed low profile rubber pads in place to prevent it from tapping the frame too hard. front, i would suggest a ball joint flip and possibly a torsion rekey with shorter shocks. it is cheap, easy, and effective way to drop. there is a write up by me in the how-to tech area near the bottom of the main forum page, check in there and go through. its fairly detailed in a good step by step thread on both bj flip, and torsion rekey mods.
My blocks are priced exactly what you'd pay for a heavy set of cast steel fabtech boat anchors from a off road store that wouldn't come with ubolts. ($62) My ubolts are custom made to spec from a reputable spring shop who builds them for my kits. They are true high quality ubolts offered in 1/2" grade 5 (about $20 more than a lousy low end Pep Boys set) or fatter 9/16" grade 8. They come with high (deep) nuts and extra thick washers. The reason people think they are pricey is because they are used to seeing lower end ubolts offered in the aftermarket, with nylock nuts and thin washers that will bend out of shape. With mine, you are paying for a quality ubolt & hardware, that will need to be painted to prevent rust, not a fancy zinc coating that hides a lower end ubolt with low end hardware.
Yes. I bought a cheap eBay kit and paid for it in the long run. Wished I would have listened to everyone and bought your kit haha
Yeah I bought 4 inch drop blocks from Beefed taco and they are way nice and it was a good drop. I also did drop spindles in the front with a ball joint flip so it was pretty close to 4/4 drop. I would also get low profile bump stops from beefed taco to help the frame hitting on big dips. (You will learn what to avoid) Here was mine static on 18s
What beefed said about the ubolts themselves is very important. They are a large reason cheap kits are cheap, but also why cheap kits are crap. I spent about 50 bucks at a spring shop to get my oversized grade 8s and went through two block kits before I built my own solution. I suggest his parts all the way. Tailor built for a mini truck not just an advertiser coming up with catalog filler.
Here are some pics to help you decide. I have 2.5 blocks from beeftaco on rear. Hope this help. I'm looking to raise it back up 1" as soon as I have funds due to sagging when hauling and an extra leaf makes if too stiff for me.
