Thought I would start a thread since I now have a nice 1973 Hilux. Haven't done anything other than new fluids and a bit of cleanup. On to pictures. The day I brought her home: Next morning in the fog: After I pulled off the Yakima rack and washed her: De-greased the engine bay: I don't have any interior pics just yet but they will come. Has a very little rust, a few rust bubbles along the gutters but nothing that can't just be cleaned and treated, below the rear window trim, the driver side floor has some surface rust on the inside, a little in the tailgate, and there is a bit of surface rust in the engine bay. Haven't named her yet, that may take time.
What are you doing with the roof rack? I'm interested in the deflector from it for mine. Got any more pics of it? And was that a tow bar on the back, or a bumper mounted ladder rack to run to the roof rack? Let me know if you need any parts. I have lots of the little stuff.
I still have the roof rack(just the roof portion) but would like to let it go as a whole. I'm asking $125 for it. It is two 1A bases with a cross bar and the front fairing, still has all the keys. The rear part was the Yakima Dry Dock, a receiver mounted rack that combines with the roof portion for carrying a kayak/canoe. I need all sorts of stuff, lol, needs pedal covers, all the door rubber needs to be replaced, needs a steering box, new shocks, lowering parts(needs those bad!) Ha, so yeah, it needs stuff. I'm trying to figure out the best swap for engine and transmission to get rid of the stock 4 speed and 18RC. I'm leaning towards a 22R with a 5 speed(not sure which one) because it seems like it would be the easiest to put in. I would like a twin cam like the 4AGE(with dual side drafts instead of fuel injection) but I don't know how hard that would be to install or if it would be enough for the truck. Any info or help on, well everything is much appreciated...
Anytime ya got questions just ask away bud. I've been messin with mine for almost six years. Ill see if I can find a set of pedal pads that match my 78 which should fit 73s. I usually grab any old Toyota pedal covers when I'm at the junk yards. Just never label the damn things lol. I've got lots of dash parts (except any pads) too, since that stuff wears out. Don't have spare lowering parts except my old cut coils. Running some diff ones now. I would still stick with swapping in a de-emissions'd 20/22r. Since they came that way, parts are the easiest to find. A 4A* with side drafts will cost a ton for the power output. And if you're new to building a motor up like you mentioned, the stock 75-78 platform is a great learning platform. Just sort of copy the changes Toyota made a few years later. It can be done, my cousins 74 has a 20r. Looks all stock, and going from the matching 75/76 style grille and bed (bed side markers were low not high) and the gas tank swap, somebody just used a 75/76 parts truck. Was from an old farmer so we didn't know the whole story getting it. Anyways, ill try to ramble too much for now For now if you have a strong running 18r with a working trans, id keep that going. Get a better ignition coil (msd/accel/ect) that's higher voltage than stock. And plugs/wires that will transmit the power better than stock grade. I like ngk v power plugs. Nothing too fancy, still under $2 usually. I have Taylor 8.5mm wires that were already fitted to work for an 85-95ish 22re. Worked fine with my 78 distributor. Those upgrades will help burn what has you're already sending in the best it can. Next improve the air flow with a better exhaust, maybe a header if you can acquire one for that motor. And I've seen guys not only do the common weber 32/36 swap but even seen a stock 22r carb on an 18r with a wooden adapter plate. Seemed to work, and they do have a higher CFM airflow than the 18, and jetted for a larger motor, which should in theory provide more fuel volume and therefore power potential; as long as it can be burnt. Which is why I always start with the ignition first. Sort of an upgrade parts level tuneup. Okay I'm rambling again. Time for more Xbox. Enjoy pondering all that
Well, the exhaust runs down the driver side with a 20/22r. So the tank was the pass side. You could route the pipes however ya want underneath.
Personally Id build a good 20 or 22R for it, instead of just buying one for it. It would be plenty of power for the truck, but not so much that you cant use it. And they arent hard to build at all, theres plenty of sources for info for them too. The 3 that ive built so far have cost about $800-1500, it all depends on what you want, like a solid rebuild with a couple upgrades or like the one im building I had .014" shaved, bored .020" over, 1.5mm bigger valves and stiffer springs and cam, aluminum rocker arms, and ported and polished, and Ill only spend $1500ish total..
I've got a little more into my total motor package, closer to $2k after all the gaskets, fluids, pumps, ect. The long block itself, about $1400. But yeah, they are the first choice id suggest.
Hmm, I would have to swap beds and everything to do that. Is there a good after market gas pedal replacement? My stock one keeps popping off and I end up having to use the metal rod till I can get somewhere to put it back on.
There's a few aftermarket aluminum pedal setups. We got one for our 440 Dakota project, I think it's lokar brand.
I plan on doing a static drop of about 4 or so inches, what width and offset wheels will fit under my truck? I plan on staying with between 14-16" wheels and was hoping a wider on would fit, maybe 8 or so inch. Anyone running small wide oldschool wheels on their truck? Also, what kind of flares will fit my wheel arches and where can I get them? I mean like the old Bushwhacker 1979-1983 pickup flares or the ones you always see on Starlets or 70s Corollas? Kinda like these maybe wider or better looking: If I can manage a decent size wheel tire combo I will forgo the flares though.
My wheels are 15x7 and the only time I rub is going in steep driveway while turning pretty sharp. I think you could easily do a 8 inch wide depending on offset.
I've run 16x7s with 225/50/16s on my drop. Had full lock as no rubbing. With a smaller drop I'm sure it would be fine. Stock wheels are your cheapest option. Popular ones are from mustangs, crown Victoria's, starions, 300zx, ford probes, ect. I've run the last two and they worked fine. I have 17x7.5s now without any issues. The diameter and offset is similar to my previous 16s. As for flares, there aren't any direct fit. You will have to make something work. I'm in the process of adapting 82-85 supra flares but it'll need quite a bit of fiberglass work. There might be universal ones like in the pic you posted that can be adapted. And I bet that truck is fun with that 7m hidden in there.
Put these on yesterday, the tires are quite a bit big(215/70/15) but they are just for winter. The wheels are made by Modern(I think) could someone enlighten me on that? They are 15x7 with a zero offset I believe, they kinda poke in the front so I may get a small spacer for the rear to make them even, when I put summer tires on them.
