I have a 95 pickup. i wanna static trop my baby. i wanna go LOOWW. so i was wondering whats the best setup? what kind of shocks maybe even a c-notch (bolt on or welded) and any thing else i could possibly need. THANKS ALOT!!

 

I believe beefed taco now has a bolt in c notch. At least for frame rails. Now he needs a way to do the cross members.

My 85 is going static with DJM LCAs, B/J flip, spindles and maybe a little torsion tweak. Rear will be belltech drop leafs and beefed taco blocks.

 

Bolt in notches do work. Especially on non boxes frames. For out style, a cut and slip on from the bottom style would work best. To have a support plate on the inside and outside of the frame. Anything past 5" rear and you'll really want one.

 

I ran Belltech 2" drop spindles, 3" blocks with Toxic drop shocks at all 4 corners. I highly recommend drop spindles, it will maintain most of the factory ride.

From there to go lower you can crank the torsions down and do what they suggested, ball joint flip, drop leafs or pull the overload, etc

 

well, depending on your definition of "LOWWW" im guessing between 5-8" of drop. anything beyond 5" as mentioned WILL require a notch job to be done, and crossmembers to be cut and notched as well. this should be your first step in lowering your truck as this IS YOUR FIRST limitation in going to a low drop.

beyond this, you can drop the truck on a fairly low budget including, drop shocks, bj flip, torsion rekey, rear leaf mod, 3-5" blocks, and a proper alignment, you are not looking at a whole lot of cash on parts. your main cost will be around ~$200 bucks for most of your parts and alignment.

notching your frame depending on your skill level can cost you maybe 20-30 bucks in materials but you will need a welder and know how to weld of course. im not sure about beef taco, but i have done the notch jobs for the local guys around here for about $230 bucks, and from what ive heard or seen myself most places are near or around that price for notching trucks...

 

And as for the notch there are lots of ways to go about it. Some use many flat plates to build the new shape. Some use box tubing and angle cut it for a 3 piece step (what I have waiting to install), or a mild type would be a simple half circle made from a 4" or so round tube. Making a nice round cut is up to your available tools. That's why I built a flat type. It will also let me go to full frame if I ever bag it depending how I lay it into the frame.

So notch time asks the major question of will it stay static and if so, what's your end goal? You want to leave room for travel of course, and some make a little more space for a bump stop.

As it is right now my 6-7" rear drop gives me less than an inch til it hits the frame. Pro side is I don't scrape the bed on huge dips, and can carry any load I want without ass dragging. The cons are that it constantly hits and that even at full contact with the frame, the ass sits an inch higher than the nose.

Depending if you have a short or long bed, or an xcab; determines the crossmembers to deal with. Most people its just the one in front of the axle. And often the driveline rubs the bottom of the cab as well.

Just get your facts and choices made before you start. Otherwise you'll be like half of us and lower the same truck 2 or 3 times