I'm looking at buying my first Toyota pickup and I would like some advice from someone more experienced!

(If there is a better place to post this, let me know, or move it).

Here's what I am looking at:

$3000 (might be able to talk it down a bit)
1991 4x4 pickup
160,000 miles on orig. engine
compression: 140, 145, 130, 160 psi
No smoking (or very little if any)
Timing chain just replaced
new muffler
new shocks
new cooling system
oil leak around valve covers (not too major)

The truck looks to have been maintained fairly well over the years, and I can't see any obvious problems with anything major, but it has two issues that worry me:

Hunts while idling after the engine is warmed up (maybe just a vacuum issue? or maybe efi problems?)

There is a rattle while driving. It only occurs when the truck is moving, in gear and neither accelerating or decelerating (When I press the gas just enough to keep the engine rotating at the same pace as the tranny, if that makes sense). I can't tell where it is coming from because I have to be driving for it to make the noise. My initial thoughts are either transmission problems or possibly just a bad motor mount (since the engine is able to "float" in the mounts under those conditions rather than being torqued one way or the other).

I am a graduate student in a PhD program, so I don't have a lot of time and/or money to deal with costly repairs if I don't have to. If you guys think it is something simple, I might just go for it.

Thanks!

 

The rattle could be anything from loose heat shield or exhaust touching . Wouldn't be concerned with that . More importantly the condition of the drive train namely the 4x4 components . Transfer case front axles . Differential . Any large gear whine or grinding . May cost you money if the truck has mud stuffed way up high like its been in deep mud pits its whole life I'd stay away

It's hard to suggest over the web . On how a truck performs 22re are strong tuff motors and are easy to fix . 160 k really isn't to much mileage . But with buying an old vehicle and preparing to maintain it or fix it . A strong mechanical knowledge would be ideal and a decent set of tools. Cause I'm sure there are some things that would need fixing or replaced

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

I have so-so mechanical knowledge, and I would be comfortable with most minor repairs, but I wouldn't try to do something like a rebuild on my own. I am inexperienced with these trucks, so I appreciate the feedback.

I couldn't detect any trace of a transmission whine or grind in 2 or 4 wheel. The chassis looks clean. It has obviously not been recently "scrubbed" to remove evidence of hard mudding, and there is no trace of mud anywhere. It looks like it has been on pavement for the last several years at least.

What else should I be checking/inspecting before feeling comfortable buying?

 

Oil condition . Black gummy low stuff like that . The compression numbers are still in what I would call expectable for that mileage and aren't bad If the truck looks to be respectably driven . It could be a good buy . If it hasn't been in any major collisions . And the drive train checks out .. Then the rest if any of the minor fixes are fairly easy .. Plugs fuel filters routine tune ups are easy on these trucks .. But with any older truck . You will be taking on some fixes and repairs . So if your up to it and can handle few busted knuckles and curse words .. Go for it .. If the guys willing to except 2800 . I'd offer .. Save u 200 bucks for tag and title or some tune up parts

Hunting at idle could just be some old vacuum lines or a cracked rubber plastic intake tube common on 22re

 

A slightly surging idle is a simple vacuum leak so it's easy to fix. The rattle you are hearing while neither on or off the throttle is probably the rear driveline. That truck should have a two piece rear driveline. Set the e brake and slide under it and give the driveline a good wiggle in all directions. Chances are the carrier bearing in the middle of the shaft is starting to get loose.

 

This is what i spent on parts to rebuild my 1993 Hilux... these are Wholesale prices and the ebay items is just regular price you would pay... the following can serve as a guide if you should need to replace any parts

Here is the grand total of all that I spent on this build:
(Keep in mind that most of the prices are Wholesale prices from the business relationships i have had for several years.)

DATE--- COMPANY--- DESCRIPTION ---- PRICE $

3/18/2013 JONAS 1993 TOYOTA HILUX 22RE $ 400
3/22/2013 KEYSTONE Hood 74.60
3/21/2013 KEYSTONE Fender - LH 28.48
3/21/2013 KEYSTONE Fender - RH 28.48
3/21/2013 KEYSTONE Front Bumper - Chrome 56.38
21-Mar KEYSTONE Valance Front 15.00
21-Mar KEYSTONE Grille Front Chrome 28.64
22-Mar Ebay Right Side Window Glass OEM 32.85
25-Mar Ebay Clear Rear Red Tail Light 24.51
26-Mar EBAY Clear Front Turn Signals $27.81
26-Mar EBAY Clear Front Corner Chrome Lenses 49.99
28-Mar STREETSIDE AUTO Westin Diamondsetp Rear Bumper 212.51
28-Mar STREETSIDE AUTO Westing Bumper Install Kit 53.01
2-Apr GENERAL AUTO GLASS Windshield 150.01
2-Apr SUNBELT Radiator - New 53.01
2-Apr SUNBELT Radiator Cap 5.01
2-Apr SUNBELT AC Drier 7.01
2-Apr INSIGNIA Radiator Support 54.01
2-Apr EBAY New Bumper Bracket -LH 11.19
EBAY New Bumper Bracket -RH 11.19
3-Apr Worldpac BOSCH Water Pump 22.63
Worldpac BANDO - Drive Belt AC 4.81
Worldpac BANDO - Drive Belt Alt 6.09
8-Apr West Kendall Toyota Drier Tube Aluminum 40.63
8-Apr West Kendall Toyota Rad Bolt & Washer 3.58
12-Apr Sunbelt AC Condenser 72.01
19-Apr West Kendall Toyota Rubber Hood Stops 2 pcs 5.30
20-Apr Advance Auto Parts Black Battery Cable 11.79
20-Apr Advance Auto Parts Red Battery Cable 11.79
22-Apr Worldpac Valve Cover Gasket 12.43
Worldpac Timing Cover gasket 1.18
Worldpac Timing Gear Kit Complete 60.57
Worldpac Water Pump Gasket 1.55
22-Apr WNC Auto Parts -Ebay Distributor - Used 75.01
22-Apr Roni Younan JDM Mirrors - Used 25.01
23-Apr Worldpac Oil Pan Gasket 4.31
West Kendall Toyota 22RE Engine Plate Name 2.12
3-May West Kendall Toyota Emblem "Toyota" Grille 19.35
MOP Headlight Buckets Pr. 40.01
MOP Radiator Overflow Tank 15
MOP Windshield Washer Tank 15.01
EBAY Stant Oil filler cap 4.31
Ebay Fan Relay with Thermostat 27.76
4-May Advance Auto Parts Spectre Air Intake 90 degree Chrome 11.99
Advance Auto Parts Mobil One 15W50 Synthetic Oil w/ Filter 33.49
6-Apr Advance Auto Parts Spectre Air Intake Silicone Joiners 12.49
6-May Ebay 12mm Oil Catch Breather Cone Small 4.04
14-May Advance Auto Parts NGK Spark Plugs 9.56
17-May Ebay Chrome Exterior Door Handles 20.01
17-May West Kendall Toyota Headlamp Adjusting Screw 5.91
West Kendall Toyota Headlamp Adjusting Screw 5.91
17-May Ebay Chrome Tailgate Latch 12.15
17-May Ebay Blue Air Intake Filter 17.9
21-May The Parts House Headlight Adjustment Screw 4.87
The Parts House Headlight 3 prong Socket 1.65
4-Jun Worldpac YEC Distributor Cap 10.93
Worldpac YEC Distributor Rotor 4.38
17-May U-Pick Auto Salvage Pioneer 3 Way speaker 20.00
U-Pick Auto Salvage Coin/Cup Holder - 92 Ford Taurus 7.49
23-May Lowe's 3/8" Brass Elbow fittings 6.42
Lowe's 3/8" Brass Elbow fittings 2.83
30-May Almesiga Tire Nexen 205/50/15 New Tires 100.00
3-Jun The Parts House Headlight 3 prong Socket 1.77
4-Jun Ricky Evans Dash Radio Face Plate 11.01
5-Jun Roni Younan Steering Column Cover - Grey 26.01

PARTS TOTAL $ 2,136.76




DATE--- COMPANY--- DESCRIPTION of LABOR ---- PRICE $

8-May Juan Carlos Crespo Labor on Timing Chain Replacement 200.01
20-May Angel Auto Body Body Work & Paint Pearl White w Blue Pearl 1,540.01
23-May Jonas Fan Relay Labor 60.01
31-May Frio Car Air Conditioning Recharge 80.01


LABOR TOTAL $ 1,880.04


GRAND TOTAL COMBINED $ 4016.31

 

Nice list. That's a helpful resource!

I'm sure I can handle the carrier bearing. if that is the problem it should be a cheap/ relatively painless fix. The truck is about an hour 45 minutes from here, so if I am going to go wiggle the drive shaft, I might as well do a more thorough inspection.

Is there anything else specific to this truck/engine/suspension that I should specifically look for?

Are there any other ideas about the rattle that may be the cause (if the carrier bearing appears to be in good shape)?

thanks!

 

White trash is probably right believe he has owned a few 4x4s . If it ain't that it could be few other things . So Long as it doesn't sound internal in the transmission or transfer case . Engine then I wouldn't be concerned .. It could be the carrier or just something hanging on the frame vibrating or ratting .. These trucks are pretty stiff ride so something shaking loose can happen If the motors got decent power and ain't smoking like a train clutch ain't slipping . 4x4 engages and disingages . No massive driveline noise at speed then probably a well rounded truck

 

Compressions bad, very bad.

from the FSM:
standard: 171 psi (nowhere near)
Minimum: 142 psi (2 failed, another VERY close)
max variation: 14 psi (definitely failed)

HOWEVER it could be that they didn't do the test right (remove ALL plugs and crank the same number of compressions for each cylinder) Nevertheless, it shows the engine as being well worn.

They did the timing chain but didn't replace the VC gasket? or didn't clean up? lazy/shoddy work.

What exactly in included in "cooling system replaced"? heater hoses? IACV hoses? heater core? or just the radiator, radiator hoses and water pump?

Hunting at idle is either A. need to track down and fix (as mentioned, usually stemming from vacuum leaks and not terribly hard to remedy) or B. seller doesn't know how/why. Either way you can use it to negciate.

Go over the frame with a fine tooth comb. try to scrape off some of the rust to see how bad it is. These trucks are prone to cancer from the inside out. Don't let body condition fool you, There's a guy on toyotanation that had his frame almost fold up on him it was so bad without a spot of rust on the body while my truck has rust holes I can put my hand through and I swept 2 lbs of rust off the floor last time i worked on it in the garage but the frames surprisingly free of structural cancer.

Wow you guys are nice. Compression numbers aside, with ANY smoking and a rattle I didn't know the exact source of are going to knock a pretty penny off the top.

For 3k the frame better be solid and body in very good shape.

I know this is kind of a negative swing but someone's gotta play devils advocate.

 

I agree the numbers aren't the best .would be Leary to trust someone who said they did a compression test and indeed up with a set of numbers if in fact they actually followed it buy the Rules Wich most don't . Nor try to figure if its rings or valves doing the leak down ..at only 160k friends severely abused 200k motor was showing 140 range . Ran like a top . Wasn't the fastest but still going today recently did new valves and seals . Didn't change his numbers but stopped start up smoking