Has anyone run them this way I know of a few kits that give you the NASCAR style that face the driver! Also a few rat rodders make a kit master only? Just wondering and reviewing my options!
If you remove the booster you have to change where the rod bolts to the arm to get more leverage. Be prepared to push the pedal further as a result and make sure you have enough travel to lock the tires. I used to have an S10 that came from the factory with no power brakes. Definitely noticeable but I (6-4, 225 at the time) could still lock the larger than stock tires. My 110lb wife...not so much. She couldn't drive more than about 20 minutes because her legs got so tired.
Thats called manual brakes. They came standard on Model T's, Dodge Bro's trucks and Diamond Rio's, most of which ran wheels 20+ inches tall, so there should be LOTS of braking power. You could prolly adapt the setup from one of these cars or trucks, but just to be safe, you should probably switch to wood-spoke wheels to lighten unsprung weight.
I gotta ask why. If its clearance they can be swapped for smaller ones or moved around. If its for looks, there's ways around that without making the truck a turd to stop. Lol.
In my part of the world, power assisted brakes which are mainly used on vehicles with front disc brakes. Four wheel drum brakes normally have larger diameter wheel and master cylinder which use more fluid volume but requires less braking forces having larger brake contact surface, disc upgrades such as with the early fj40 landcruiser require replacement of the rear brakes as well from two wheel cylinder per wheel that are double acting to a single acting single cylinder of smaller diameter double acting cylinder The front disc calipers might have large diameter piston but requires very little travel and so used very little fluid, most disc brake vehicle now have split system master cylinder which allows front and rear brakes to operate separately unlike early drums master cylinder which were single piston as the front and rear brakes used the same pressure to operate. As vehicles with front disc brake required greater force on the smaller front braking surface a brake booster servo is used, although some front drum brake vehicle have them as well but the difference is in the diameter of the booster and the length, front disc have a larger diameter booster with shorter travel, the RK100 and RK101 stout had a bendix hydrovac remote booster which were on 50's Cadillac and so on, mounted in the trunk
i run this wilwood setup on my truck, which has front and rear disk from a 88 mk3 supra. pedal is definitely firm compared to a boosted system. but isn't that bad considering i don't drive it everyday. i've been in heavy stop and go traffic once and i could feel the burn by the time i got through it lol.
i'm having my friend do a fiberglass dash. it'll weigh around 5lbs tops and will come in and out in less then a minute. same setup he has in his 61 falcon wagon drag car. it looks 100% stock but comes out with 4 dzus fastners. for now i don't have to check the masters that often. if there is a leak i'll see it before i drive.
That's what I was thinking! Toyota masters don't leak! This truck isn't going to be a daily driver anyways!
Well guys I wasn't going to post anything about what booster I was using until it worked! So here it is I used a 88 tercel booster! I made a new plate and cut out the firewall and welded in the new plate! Had modify the brake lines very little! It works great! I also threw the proportioning valve in the trash and used a tee I found off a 86 corolla it was under the master cylinder!
81 era trucks have a fairly narrow and long booster too, and bolt up. Was narrower than my 78 style. I hammered my inner fenders til they were against it and I needed more space. I've got that hardcore static drop
I went to couple local junk yards and all the truck boosters were rusted out pretty bad the tercel one was in great shape and appeared to be smaller!
That's how I found mine. Could only afford junkyard parts. I actually swapped due to a leaky master. Hadn't gotten to it yet because of cost. Post some pics when you get a chance. And what did you have to do to the lines? Tweak the shape or change flare nuts?
