That's exactly the reason. And unfortunately with the way the 'cup' on the lower arm holds the ball joint, it's impossible to flip it the other way without some cutting and welding (or high heat and some bashing). The use of the 'tab-style' mount for the ball joint on the 84+ is a massive step up in flexibility.

 

My 78 arms are the same way as 79-83. Same spindle with the solid rotor too. Just a coil spring A arm instead. So, if the area was flattened and braced, it could be used to run late model spindles, correct? That would be an answer me and the other guy could both use. It seems like its doable. I want vented rotors lol.

 

Theoretically, yes. I've never done it. Flatten and braced, and with new holes to fit late-model ball joints (or correctly set up to flip the old ball joints), you should be able to run late-model spindles, assuming the upper balls fit correctly. Getting the measurements right is the main thing.

Keep in mind, this should change the relation of the bump stop in relation to the lower arm. You'll likely end up with more upwards travel before contacting the stop. Something to be aware of if your springs or shocks are softer than stock, or if you're lowered.

 

i would run skinnier tires. those tires you have on there are the issue... not the wheel... after that you may wanna camber in the front suspension. also, are you going to lower this any? ive found out that with stock arms, the track width will decrease after a certain pivot angle the arms reach.

 

I do plan to lower it a good bit by cranking the Tbars down. As it sits, it looks like it could be a 4x4. I want it to almost pass for a stockish/junkyard truck...but with bigger tires on back. I'm not good at explaining the look I want. I know you guys have seen a guy drop a crappy v8 in a S10 before, throw on some slicks and act like it's a rocket ship. That's kinda what I want people to think about my truck at first glance. I'll try to get my truck together enough to take a pic in a couple days.

 

Here's the bed with the wheels and tires I'm running in the back. I don't know if you can get the feel I'm going for. From a distance it should look like your average "hillbilly racing project". Further inspection will reveal, an LS motor, ladder bar backhalf, hidden nitrous kit, and a bunch of racing goodies.
As for the front, I'm gonna try to sell the tires I have up there now and get the 26" ones I need.

What can I do to get these pictures rightside up?

 

if this truck is just gunna be drag racing i'd narrow the stock arms and be done.

 

What about rolling the fenders? Would fit the image I think you want. And I second the tip that lowering it will pull them in at a certain point.

 

Sorry I never came back to this thread. I do plan to roll the fenders. I've also decided to get my hubs remade to set the wheel back some. I'll explain later when I hear back from the machinist. I'm also going with a shorter tire, but I need it to set deeper in the wheelwell to look "right". Lowering the truck did help a bit. I plan to install drop spindles depending on the ride height when the backhalf is done.

 

Moving the wheel mating surface back is going to open up a whole can of pain in the ass. I forsee rotor and caliber clearance issues in your future. Get rid of the fat front tires and/or pick up another pair of wheels with more backspacing. It will cause so much less headache later.

 

Mine stick out like that too, have 15x3.5 centerlines with 25" tall tire. Swapped to 4wd fenders and that helped but wish I could sink the wheel back a little. I'm planning to ditch the torsion bars this winter too.

It's hard to tell in the pics but the 4wd fenders did help alot.

 

im about to be selling my bags and switches and all off of my truck.... but this is what mine looks like with it... has gt wheels which are 8.5''-9'' I think and they clear great...