Will DJM 3" drop LCAs fit 84-87? Their site says it only fits 88-96 which I thought strange since 88 years are different from 89-95. I called them and their tech support has no idea. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
They will work fine on your truck, we did two sets in one day on an 88 and an 89. If you have access to a compressor and impact it will speed the install way up.
quick mention, you will need to check the lower ball joint bolt patterns. the later 88+ trucks used a slightly different lower ball joint wich is why DJM lists them as 88-94. just buy new lower ball joints for a 90+ pickup, replace your old ones, and you will be fine.
I just finished the install of these on an 85 long bed. Everything bolted right up for me. They did mention the ball joint thing and depending on the bolt sizes you may have to drill the holes bigger. Mine were the smaller ones so they went right in. If I had pictures other than the ones on my phone I'd show you them.
Nope, reference my OOPS post in your how to do a B/J flip thread. I need to adjust the torsions to get it to sit even up front, so guess while I'm messing around with those I'll do this.
Alignment help. As I mentioned above, I've installed the DJM LCA's on my 85. I've also since flipped the B/J. Took it to a shop and they claim they can't get it back into spec. It was aligned before I added these. They are claiming the camber and caster are the problem and recommending adjustable upper control arms. Is this a common problem with these or am I/them missing something?
Note on b/j flip. I used a couple washers on bottom b/j. I also moved the upper b/j to keep distance between them similar. Didn't use washers up there.
you can flip your upper ball joints if it is an issue for the camber to be brought out more if the upper control arm shims are not enough... however, out of the counless trucks ive done this modification to, none have had issues with toe in/out alignment. the camber will be between -2 to around -4 degrees but is usually not an issue with the trucks unless ou are running a very thin sidewall (like a 225/35/18 etc..) caster shouldnt be much of an issue unless your front radius arm bushings are really worn or loose.
And part of lowering a truck is getting more negative camber. Can't always get it to factory spec. Get it close and live with it. I've had alignment shops tell me they can't do mine either. I did my own.
I have the upper B/J flipped, just no washers. Ok, well there report stated this Left Camber -0.3 right camber -1.1 Left caster -0.1 right caster -1 left toe 0.0 right toe -0.4 But from what I'm reading from you guys is my main issue with camber is the difference from left to right. I'm guessing I took it to a shop that if it's not factory they don't have a clue. Cause I don't know why they couldn't get the right to match the left at least. That's my one big gripe with "Tech's" these days. If the computer doesn't know, the person turning the wrench doesn't either.
Very true! When I took mine to the last place to get aligned, he couldn't even understand that on my frame shims ADD camber not remove it. It's reverse of lose setups. Then he couldn't figure out how to mount the big thing to my rim with them being so low. You might wanna look at some of the DIY alignment tools from summit racing. I would assume both sides can be set even, your case -1.1*, even if that's out of factory spec