Not much to report on the truck (although i did have a dream where it was bagged in the back and had bead-lock wheels with solid metal covers on them.)

Finally did figure out why my DD has been stalling. The distributor cap (well, a sensor inside) seems to be overheating, which is why it runs fine while cold, but then stalls later on.

I'll have to get a new distributor for it very soon. Then i'm going to have to clean all the crap out of the carb on the toyota. (and possibly replace the alternator too)

 

Good news

Distributor in my DD has been replaced and works now. Also got a replacement alternator installed in the 'yota. Next step: clean all the crap outta the carb + tank. After that, it should be driving once more.

 

Got the carb pulled the other day. (and drained all the crap outta the tank) I was considering just ordering a 32/36 from redline, but this is a budget build, so now I'm waiting on a carb rebuild kit. Then i can finally focus my attention on the charging issue. After that? On the road.

 

Not much going on right now. I have started work on a custom wooden cover for the shifter knob (as the original was gone). I'll post pics when it's closer to being done.

 

hey I have an A40 transmission I pulled from my 77 to swap in a w50 I'm trynna get rid of. I think it's good just the torque converter went out. PM me if your interested. Still have the shift linkage and all that good stuff too hahaha

 

I'm curious if there's anyone in the spokane area who's got the time/expertise to rebuild a carb?
It's been disassembled and completely cleaned out, and I've got the carb kit to go into it, just haven't got the time to try to put it back together at the moment.

 

Ok, so carb's rebuilt and installed.....but the accelerator pump isn't working. isn't squirting fuel into the carb when the pedal is depressed. Help?

 

Did you rebuild this yourself? It could be the pump nozzle is blocked. There should be a needle(pin) in the bottom under the nozzle screw and the nozzle screw should have a hole in it.
I don't have a standard hilux motor in mine so I can't give any ideas of the linkage/diaphragm problems.

Holley Carb Tips

 

Ehh? under the pump plunger is a check ball and a retainer to keep it in place. not sure what nozzle you're talking about. If you're talking about the one linked to the float, it's fine unless the float itself is stuck.


In other, more cosmetic news, I have finally gotten the handmade wooden shifter handle cover finished. (well, not exactly. Needs some woodfinish/staining yet.)



The trickiest part was actually cutting out the notch inside it for the lever to move, but once that was done, it worked like a charm.

 

Nice touch with the wood bit. I bet it will get a nice patina over time.

 

Well, got a dang near perfect bench seat from a '75 in there now. only problem is it uses different mounting holes than the '77 seat. I'll probably end up just reupholstering the '77 seat and either taking the '75 seat back to pull and save or selling it to another spokane 'yota driver.

Also got a left front fender (from the same '75) that is the same color as mine, but in far better condition. (though it doesn't have the pinstripes)

 

The shifter looks great.

Any exterior shots of the truck? Looks like a great project.

 

There was one early on. I'll throw some up later tonight, including a discovery about '75 fenders vs '77 fenders.

 

Please do.

 

Photobucket seems to have an issue tonight. It won't let me upload my pictures to there, so I'll have to make do with the forum uploader.

first image is the original fender with the new one ready to replace it.

Second one is the left side with new fender attached and everything below the pinstripe gone over with some polishing compound. (going to run a slight two tone for a bit because I can.)

third image is the gap between the hood and the '75 fender. Turns out that the five bolts along the top of the fender are slightly farther from the inner "wall" of the fender than those on the '77. (note that the '75 fender i acquired was stamped by SYT, but the '77 fender was not.) This results in a rather noticeable gap between the hood and the left fender. not a real problem, but worth noting.

 

I used to work in a body shop and learned lots of panel alignment tricks. How is the gap between the cowl panel and the fender? What about the fender to the rocker panel under the door? If you can, you should be able to finesse that inner bolt flange toward the outer skin a bit, then adjust it in further. Or try slotting the holes to push it inward. You can also move the hood over a hair and split the difference that way. For panel alignment, you always wanna start with the fenders. Then set the doors to match them. Then set the striker to match the cab.


And I gotta say, damn I love that color. I always wished my 78 was that color. Its the only stock shade I would have rather had.

And I guess I'm not the only one who has set a fender against a tire to see how it would look laid out

 

By the cowl i assume you mean the panel just behind the hood? If so the fender is already touching that. It lines up just fine with the rest of the bolt holes (but the two on the rocker panel broke on removal, so gotta drill them out.)


And you really like the color? odd. most people I meet tend not to. (it does look a heck of a lot better after the rubbing compound though. the pics do not do it justice)

 

Purple is my favorite color, followed closely by any shade of "ugly green" lol. I have old air force flight suits, vietnam jackets, a 60s suitcase, an old wool USMC blanket, i rock lots of olive green. My ramcharger will be getting painted a similar color to yours this summer. Gonna use rustoleom can paint, thin it with acetone and spray it with a primer gun (has larger ports than a paint gun). I have done that before for projects and it lays out great. Super durable paint too. I got 3 qts satin forest green, 1 qt gloss sun yellow and a 1/2 qt flat white. Going to mix them all together and make a shade I like. Should be fairly satiny.

Anyways, the truck looks good. I will see if I can think of any other ideas that would close up your hood gap.

 

well, she starts and runs, but still need to tinker with the adjustment screws before she'll go anywhere.

There's also a chance that we'll need to modify the linkage that came with the carb because the stock linkage doesn't seem to want to stay tight.

 

Looking good. I'd like to find some replacement panels as well. Might are close to perfect, but not quite.