Question about lowering blocks

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by emanon5k, Feb 3, 2013.

  1. emanon5k

    emanon5k Newbie

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    Location:
    Knoxville,TN
    Truck:
    86 Regular Cab Longbed
    Well Beefed, it looks like you've talked me into definitely going with yours instead of the others. I will more than likely be placing an order here in a week or two once I get some extra cash. How long does it usually take to get a set after the order is placed?
     
  2. Beefed Taco

    Beefed Taco Addict

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    Yes they are. They fit the axle correctly, snug with no play, but not so snug that they're hard to squeeze into the ubolt-shock plate. It's common for aftermarket ubolts (not mine) to come in a "one size fits all", which is 3" i.d. measured from the inside to inside just below the U. It's also common for lower end aftermarket ubolts to come long enough to accommodate a 4" block, and the same length in kits with smaller blocks, which means you have to cut the ubolts down to get the socket on, then usually cut them again to get rid of the threads hanging down after the install.

    I try to get them to your door within 2 weeks from purchase. People always tell me it was worth the wait.

    Ben at the spring shop I use is a very intelligent guy who's been doing this forever. He gives me a great price, unlike normal walk in customers, which allows me to offer these true high quality ubolts at a reasonable price. I only add about $8 to $10 and drive my own truck 54 mile round trip to p-u as orders come in, which is why I hit as many of my supply places I can when going there since I always have to put $10 into my tank for the journey. He works on everything from big rigs to small trailers, and builds anything under the sun.

    These are true high quality ubolts that come bare steel and need to be painted or they'll rust and look like crap and be a nightmare to remove later. There is no fancy zinc coating or nylock nuts. Extra thick washers and big deep nuts (hi nuts) that have little to no play in the threads when tightened down. The 9/16" grade 8 have zero play, the 1/2" barely any. Try this on a set commonly found in stores. No need for 9/16" ones unless you're diff is locked, you're racing or really beating hard on your truck.

    I know at first glance the price may seem outrageous to those used to seeing block & ubolt kits for $40 online or in stores, but people are starting to realize it's best to do it right the first time and not waste money.

    A few years back I was told by a forum member (not this forum) that the price is outrageous, and he was just looking for "cheap" ubolts. Being the helpful truck friend I am, I offered to get him a set of $32 specials from pep boys and ship them to canada flat rate since I thought maybe it was the shipping that was killing him, but never heard from him again. He recently sent me a PM trying to get ubolt specs from me. I knew he was probably trying to have some built or purchased elsewhere. I answered his question politely but never gave him the specs he needed...I dodged the question LOL. He had treated me like a jerk years ago, but I remembered his username and got a little stab back at him :D
     

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    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013
  3. MrDinkleman

    MrDinkleman Addict

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    SoCal
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    1988 standard cab, long bed
    Do you make bolt/block kits for a 2" drop with the 9/16" bolts? I prefer the 9/16" bolts just because they should be stronger and are (?) available. I still use my truck to haul stuff...

    Suspension and brakes; two things you shouldn't cheap out on...:waytogo:
     

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