DJM 4" Steel Lowering Block Kit :: Rear :: 1988-1994 Toyota Pickup :: Toyota :: Traditional Suspension :: Suspension :: TruckSHOP.com I wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with these? If you have please let me know if they are worth the money. I had some ebay special aluminum 4" blocks that cracked on me and wanted to find something that would hold up better and ran across these.
STREETACOS Home Page Those blocks would work but a set of beef blocks are much better and are built to control pinion angle wich will reduce driveline wear and vibration cost a little more but quality is second to none .i no djm blocks are tapered to but just my preference
Thanks for the suggestion I will look into them and see what the price difference is. Whats the drop kit include thats like $400?
If you click on the detail description tab (i think thats what its called on his site) it shows that it includes. COMPLETE 3/4 DROP KIT INCLUDES: (2) DJM Front Lower Control Arms (2) Custom steel 4" blocks / other sizes available / built in increments of 1/4" / leave comment when checking out (4) High quality 1/2" grade 5 u-bolts (2) Low profile bolt on bum[p stops / rear
Scrubb88, What do you mean by pinion angle? I was wondering what exactly is wearing down using standard aftermarket drop blocks?
As you lower a truck the angle of the rear end changes pointing the rear end up. What this does is wear out ujoints. Blocks with pinion angle adjustments keep the driveline strait instead of binding against it self.
what ever you do, do NOT get aluminum blocks. The guys on here told me not to get them and I said oh well. One of Beef's pictures is on an aluminum block that is kinda indented, I wish mine were only that bad. My aluminum block was deformed buy about a 1/4" Super no no Wished I would have listened to everyone but thats what I get.
I had already made that mistake which is what I meant by having ebay specials on my truck before. I wish I would have just posted on the forums before having bought them. They lasted me probably 3 months if that. Then the rear end started to shimmy on me when I let off the gas so I went to check on the U bolts to make sure they were tight and noticed that the blocks were both dented alot and one had a nice crack in it. So I'm back to stock height now and wanting to go low again.
I was browsing though beefed's site checking out the blocks, does he sell one standard drop? Don't see any specifically for a 3in drop...?
The first pic isn't correct. #2 pic is actually the best. A drive shaft should never be perfectly straight. You'll get bad vibes. The ujoints should have a little bit of angle to keep vibes away, but not so much that they're wearing out prematurely. I encourage people who purchase from my web store to leave a comment when checking out in regards to their current or planned rear drop. Any drop beyond 3" gets a taper and the pin and hole offset to relocate the axle to where it was before the drop. Lift a truck the drive shaft pulls out a bit, lower it and it pushes inward. Usually when leaf drop or lift is used, due to the arc of the leafs. I build my blocks in increments of 1/4". Example: 3", 3-1/4", 3-1/2", 3-3/4", etc) Thanks for checking out the site. My ubolts are custom made at a spring shop and a 1/2" true grade 5 set ($59) will run you $27 more than a cheap grade 3 set made who knows where from Pep-Boys. It's $ well spent. Upgrade to fat 9/16" grade 8 for $79 which is $20 more than the 1/2" set. The 1/2" ones are the ones usually purchased. Pictured below is a set of sweet 9/16" beasts, 2nd pic is a a comparison of bad vs good. The gold ones are commonly found in auto stores. 3rd pic is what a proper ubolt install should look like. (my truck)
I have been running blocks and ubolts from Beefed for over a year and they are still holding up even the paint is perfect. If you have any lean to your truck make sure to order a size that will compensate.
Are your 9/16" U-bolts bent to the correct radius matching the Toyota axle OD? I have been searching for some good U-bolts for my truck for many years now (which is why it is still stock height). Another fun characteristic of those cheapie Pep-Boys lowerin kits' U-bolts is that the radius is some generic size to fit any axle. I am guessing that they assume when you tighten them down enough, they will get "close enough" to the correct radius and the locating pin will do the rest to keep the axle in place on the springs. I know that if you go to a 4 X 4 shop, they have U-bolts in many lengths and radii. I just haven't had the time to measure the radius and length I need. But if you have them in the right size...