I did not see a newbe tech so I am gonna ask here at the chance of getting flamed.......

I have an 82 long bed I want to drop it 2/3 or 3/3 will I have to notch the frame for complete suspension travel?

Thanks guys

 

I'm running four in the back and don't have a c notch but can bang the frame on heavy bumps so its really up to you for complete travel yes . A notch will be helpful in that a good set of drop shocks is a must tho factory's can't handle that much compression

 

U don't have to .. Just trim or take out the bump stop

 

I have 4" blocks with no bump stops and I have yet to hit......



well, not until I picked up 6 cs (24pk) of bottled water from the grocery store earlier today. Hit frame on the first dip

 

Forgot to add I'm mono leafed wich makes it a little softer without the load leaf installed

 

Ok well I have a fiberglass campershell on the back so that adds.....100-150lbs so now what do ya'll think?

 

you definitely need a notch. This is what I'd like to get for my truck. Something simple and low profile.

 

Stock length shocks are what's needed if using blocks and no leaf drop. Only time shorter ones are needed is if there's leaf drop, and really stock length will still work fine with 3" of leaf drop. Ball joint flip and blocks don't affect shock length.

But you are correct in the fact that any lowered truck should upgrade to some quality firm shocks like KYB or something.

Here's a better shot of how I do the lower plate on c-notches now compared to that older pic earlier in this thread.

 

I thought about going down to the metal supply shop and picking up a big
1/4" wall tube and cutting it in half and using it to do that my only worry was that it would weak'n the frame. is that a possibility and would a 3" tube be big enough to fit around the axle?

And when I crank the torsions down will I need a new shock length? I figured out ther rear shock b/c the shock mounts to the lower plate....

 

yup u might need a notch i did my notch wen i was 6-7 dropped and w the notch by LoLux made everything miss

 

The truck also has a two pc. shaft will I have to do any thing with that?

 

If you go lower than 4" you'll want to flip the carrier bearing over 180 degrees and bolt it back up. This will make the drive shaft straighter again and get rid of the V in the center. It'll help keep vibes away.

 

Cool thanks and one more question the cross member that the shock bolt to infront of the rear end is there any chance that the drop out (pumpkin) will hit that? I think it will be really close if it does not hit.

 

I think when guys notch the frame they go ahead and notch that too....So your not slapping the driveshaft instead of the frame/axle... It all depends on how low you plan on going, but if your bed is off and your getting work done, why not?

 

thanks, I seen a red 83 some where that I would like my truck sit just like that...I think the user name was hoshposh....is that the one Im thinking of?

 

And is there a way to clock the torsion bar keys to get them up out of harms way and keep the truck low? Also I have a suzuki samuria front sway bar I thought about mounting ont he rear, does it take a very stiff sway bar to stiffen up the rear of a pickup?

 

????????

 

If you want to do it right, it's gonna tak some time, and some money. You'll be happy in the long run if you go this route.

First, put the torsions back to stock, do a front suspension swap with a 84-94 (someone correct these years if they're wrong).

From Rafelli's build thread:
"You need to drill 2 holes and run some bolts. But besides that, everything bolts on. Im using all of my 82 steering components though.

Upper control arms, lower control arms, ball joints, spindles w brakes and hubs, radius rods. All out of a 88.
Use your torsion bars and torsion bar lever arm thingys. The inner bolt of the arm goes into the LCA normally. You gotta drill out the second bolt hole and bolt it."

Then buy 3" drop spindles for the new suspension. You'll want to have an alignment done to make sure everything is in tip-top shape, but this will keep your steering geometry proper (meaning less wear on the components) but still give you that nice static drop.

If you want to go a little lower, do a ball joint flip with the new suspension. Doing a ball joint flip on an 82 is hard with stock suspension, and would require some fabbing due to the difference compared to the newer 84+. That's another good reason to go with 84+ suspension. (here is a 2nd thread about it to be thorough. It also contains drop spindles)

If that's still not low enough (and even if it is, consider this idea), get the 84+ sway away torsion bars for the RWD trucks. They're stiffer, meaning less wheel travel, meaning less bump stop and fender intrusion by your tires. It also means you can finally crank the torsions down slighty with less risk to bottoming out.

Depending on the combination of everything you do, you may need to tub your fenders so you're not rubbing.

As always, your mileage, clearance, and suspension travel may vary.

 

Hey thanks I will have to think about that I want to make it 4wd and just lower it untill I get the 4wd parts together but it would be cool to do it correct!

So I did a search on here and google but cannot find a write up. Is it that simple? I can probably get all the parts for a buck exept the drop spindle so I can do it kinda cheap.

 

it will be faster and safer (and probably cheaper, unless you are a wizard) to just buy a 4wd.

the benefits of having two vehicles is you can pick up parts for one while the other his only half assembled.