So...the Redline 32/36 carb arrived for my 75 hilux rn23 (20r), and now I have a couple of questions I can use help with. I'm desperate, relaying info to/from mechanic!

1) I currently have (had) a water operated choke. Is the wire for electric choke stashed somewhere in the loom, or do I need to run one? If I need to run one, from where?

2) What's the best thing to do with the water lines that fed the choke before? Block them off? Install a bypass line?

 

yep, run a wire to the new choke thats hot when the key on/crank. You can block off the two water lines, or connect them together, which ever looks cleaner and is easier for you. Congrats on the weber, its going to be a big improvment over that stock POS carb. You can also get rid of pretty much all vaccum lines cept for the 2 that go to the distributor and the one that goes to the brake booster. I removed the 2 that went to the distributor because on of my diaphrams was broken. It runs great with out those two

 

Awesome...thanks. I'm on my way to the shop to show the mechanic how it's done now!

Sure would be nice to be able to drive it away tomorrow...

If there's anything (regarding the conversion) I haven't asked that I need to know, speak up (please!).

James

 

OK, I've looked at it and most of it makes sense...but...I wish I had this thing in my driveway so I could play with it myself. I need to give instruction to the mechanic, so as to get it working well enough to drive it home. He's going to give it a whack in the morning. Here's what I found:

(I can't believe I forgot to take pics)

There's only one line coming from my distributer. It goes to a "device" (a vacuum breaker?) on the passenger side (in the intake manifold near the front). This is a "device" with (I think) 3 nipples on it. I'll add a pic of one (not mine, I copied the pic to demonstrate).

One of the vacuum lines comes out from that "device" toward the weber and hits a circular splitter that has maybe 4 lines going off in different directions, like a starfish. One of the lines from this splitter went to the bottom of the aisan. Not sure where the third line from the "device" goes.

Should I get rid of (or simply ignore for now) the rest of the vacuum lines and just run the one from the distributor vacuum advance straight to the weber? (probably not) I think it *has* to go through the "device" in the pic, rather than straight from distributor to weber...true? I'm thinking the "device" is a vacuum breaker that advances timing via distributor, and bypassing it would be bad. Feedback, anyone?

Also, there's only 1 vacuum nipple on the bottom of the Weber...so I figure run the single line from the distributor to the "device" in the manifold (as already was) and then maybe a single line from that "device" to the weber.

 

yep you can get rid off all that crap. I think the really big line in that pic goes to your brake booster, just make sure that one has vaccum. The line going to the distributor is your vaccum advance, i run mine without it cause the diaphrams are broken, yours probably is the same causing a small vaccume leak as well as not working, just delete it. Im not sure if you need straight vaccume or modulated vaccume going to your distributor, so just delete the line. As far as getting the weber working, out of the box they are good enough to drive on, but will require some fine tuning, good enough to get that truck away from your crappy mechanic. Once its running if you wanted a real shop to look at it feel free to bring it to San Diego. ill be happy to work on it.

i think we have the same ignition wires..

 

did same thing on my 1975

I replaced my carb with the Weber, plugged all the vacuum/water ports except one for advance. It runs great. If you can get a 79-80 distributor ( same to '90 I read) they go in very easy and are much better. I got the 1980 coil and ignitor from a guy on ebay. He gets these periodically and is a good guy to deal with. I could get his info if you like. I also put a 1980 five speed in. Support arm is a little tricky but the rest is very easy.

 

Lol this thread is from 2010...

 

Oh, well. Should pay attention. New to this. I've got some great help here and thought I could help some one back.