HAd my carb rebuilt, now it doesnt want to run... if i try to crank it with the pedal to the floor it stumbles and sounds as if it doesnt crank all the way? Ran before i had the carb rebuilt but wasnt running on both jets just one. Im a newb to the carb thing so what should the settings be on it? And what screw does what??? (Never had to mess with a carb before, guy that done it said he couldnt find the factory settings for it?)

 

Oh yea, it has a factory 18r-c in it.

 

i would suspect the rebuilder if he was able to rebuild it but cant find specs on it and now its worse then it was...


dont know which carb you have but there should be 2 or 3 screws on it.

the one closest to the base that goes into the carb and doesnt contact linkage should be your mixture screw. turn it in (tighten) until it stops (DONT FORCE IT OR OVER TIGHTEN!!!) then back out 2 turns. you will need to fuss with it a bit but in is leaner and out is richer.

then you should have another screw that contacts linkage on the primary side that controls idle speed, one turn in after it contacts the linkage should get it close, turn it in to increase the idle.

if you have another screw its the fast idle speed that should only contact the linkage when its cold. but if you have a manual choke you wont have this screw.



best of luck and if i were you i would buy a weber conversion kit, much better carb and easier to adjust/rebuild.

 

Thanks gonna try this now! Theres also a screw with a deep flathead part on it? Looking into the engine bay its to the left of the carb. Its a bigger screw does it have anything to do with it?

 

My '74 has the 18RC with the factory carb intalled. That big screw is your mixture screw as ShoNuff described. If you go to Autozone's website they have 'repair guides' which will have photo's of your carb and the various parts.

First check your window (front of carb) to see if there is fuel in your bowl, you can also work the linkage with the breather off and you should see your accelerator pump mist some fuel down the barrel, if that's good then your settings might be off. Every 10 degrees of turn of your mixture screw can make a big difference so go slow. A better way to get to start cold is to pump your pedal about 6 or 7 times then lay off it (close the throttle) and crank it. If the engine sounds sluggish when turning over then it probably isn't getting enough fuel. If you can't find the schematic at Autozone's website let me know and I will post it for ya. I can sympathize-my carb was hacked to pieces by the PO and that's only one of the dumb things he did. Keep us posted.

 

put a weber on it and you will be much happier!

cheers!

 

I thought of a weber, but the most i have drove it is around the yard.. i dont want to dump 350 into a carb and find another problem with it lol.

 

Would you advise a cleaning and rebuild of the existing carburetor or replacing it with a new Redline / Weber?

 

try to find a used weber instead of a brand new one. They are on craigslist all the time, and its really really hard to kill a weber so most of the time they can just be dropped on and tuned to the car.

 

I'm looking at three alternatives for my 18R-C carburetor:

1) Rebuild existing carb - I have no experience and hard to find someone
2) Purchase re-manufactured carburetor TOY352C from National Carburetors (Autozone) - I have found mixed reviews on National and re-manufactured carburetors
3) Purchase Weber 32/36 DGEV and conversion kit - I am concerned about which components of the evaporation emission control system need to remain connected.

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks.

 

If you can afford the Weber, or it's not much more than the reman carb then go that way as it would improve your power a little. Don't worry about the pollution control stuff, you won't need a vacuum line attached to the carb like the current one, you will just maintain the others off the intake manifold. The only critical one is the distributor advance, and the one that signals the vacuum switching valve could simply be teed off the intake manifold-its only purpose without the original carb would be to let the stored gas in carbon canister flow into the intake.

If it's not your daily driver and your game the carb isn't impossible to work on, and I'll bet the guy who did the work for you did a poor job. On AutoZone's website if you sign up for their free membership you get access to repair guides which are pretty decent for guiding you through. I am going to paste the link below and see if works, but if not you just have to fill in some basic info and you will have access.

| Repair Guides | Carbureted Fuel System | Carburetor | AutoZone.com