Battery Relocation Small Details!! ????

Discussion in 'Interior/Electronics' started by eurofreak2002, Jun 8, 2012.

  1. eurofreak2002

    eurofreak2002 Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    1,980
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    B-town 208
    Truck:
    80 STD SR5 LB, bagged! The new whip!
    Ok so I am moving my battery to behind passenger side of cab on side of frame where my gas tank used to be.

    I have 6 gauge
    I have 4 gauge
    I have 0 gauge

    This is my plan so if it is wrong or not feesable please let me know and explain why. I need to have the questions answered because Im not 100% certain on the answer

    Stock location of battery there was of course ground to engine
    There was power to fuse block
    There was power to starter

    Relocated place my plan
    Stock ground from battery will now go from engine to frame
    Stock power cable from battery to starter will now be replaced wiht 6 gauge from battery to starter
    Stock power wire from fuse block to battery will now go from fuse block to being spliced into 6 gauge going to starter.
    Ground from battery will now be 0 gauge and go from battery to transmission
    I plan on adding a few more 4 gauge ground

    Question is if its actually feesable to run my fuse wire from a split in the new 6 gauge starter cable to the fuse block in 4 gauge or should I just run a straight 4 gauge from battery's new location to fuse block?? Also the fact I am running ground to tranny instead of engine. I plan on adding a few more grounds from engine to frame and frame to cab as well to insure everything is legit.

    I also have to re-route and do all my compressor turn off, train horn, and switchbox power cables as they will all be moving from engine bay to under bed!

    Anything helps but please if you're not 100% certain dont answer!!! I dont need to burn down my truck or end up frying my relays and ECU. Thats why Im asking because Im not 100% sure It makes sense to me in a way but just wondering if Im wrong!

    Thanks Guys


    I
     
  2. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2008
    Messages:
    4,188
    Likes Received:
    600
    Location:
    Vallejo,Ca.
    Truck:
    88 Extracab,2wd
    I used 0 Ga. on both positive & ground leads.
    Positive I went from battery to a distribution block (non fused) in the engine bay & than to the main fuse block @ the same location, & to the starter & all locations as stock.A inline large fuse would be good close to the battery ( what I should do).The ground from the battery goes to a lug on the frame & from there straight to the engine.
    I also run positive & grounds from the battery to distribution blocks fused & non, inside the cab on the rear wall for all non stock items inside the cab. :cool:
     
  3. raylcc

    raylcc Addict

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2012
    Messages:
    569
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Truck:
    89 Regular Cab. The weirdo with the stock suspension.
    A general rule of thumb is that your positive and negative cables shoulod be the same size. I'm also not positive about wiring your ground to the trans. Yes, technically it is bolted to the engine, but how good of a ground it could give would be questionable, I would thing. Again, a general rule of thumb with relocating batteries is positive forward to starter and or fuse box, negative cable grounded to bare metal on the body and the body grounded by bare metal to the frame then the engine grounded to the frame. I'm no expert, but thats how its been done in all the cars I've seen with relocated batts. Oh, and always use a fuse within a foot or so of the battery for the above mentioned car-burning-to-the-ground reason. The car audio people have really nice looking maxi fuses and even re-setable breakers that can be wired in-line with no problems. Its cheap insurance and well worth it if theres a break in the cable somewhere down the road.
     
  4. geonbugman

    geonbugman Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2011
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Columbus
    Truck:
    93 Pick-up
    Same size cables for + and - always. Make sure you ground on the engine 0 guage, then clean the paint off of all ground spots, use a tooth washers for better contact. Ground to the frame and fire wall. You can run the power lead strait to the starter + terminal with a big ring teninal. then do your self a favor and paint everything with 5 or 6 coats of liquid electrical tape, including the crimp terninals where they fit over the wire ends. Also run a 10 guage ground wire to the head light grounding screws. You'll have nice bright lights.
     
  5. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2009
    Messages:
    3,023
    Likes Received:
    49
    Location:
    lodi ca
    Truck:
    1991 xcab 2wd 4cyl
    Just ground the battery to the frame. We did tht on my old Mazda an it worked fine then just ran new power wires to the bed
     
  6. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    2,414
    Likes Received:
    50
    Location:
    Cocoa, FL
    Truck:
    94 xtra cab
    Ok, not that it qualifies me any more than anyone else here, but I'm a licensed electrician with car audio as a self supporting hobby.

    As a general rule, Yes, the power and grounds should be the same size.

    If you leave the stock ground jumper from the chassis to the engine, you only need to run the ground wire from the battery to the chassis (frame).

    1/0 ground wire to the engine would be a waste in my mind, there will never be that amount of load there, even with the starter.

    I'd recommend at least #4 to the starter positive from the battery (again, 1/0 would be overkill unless you plan to pull a 200+ amp load continuously). You'll also want to replace or parallel the positive from the alternator to the fuse box, or bypass the fuse box with the new positive jumper and go to the starter stud, this will reduce the voltage drop through the stock #10 wire and help with charging and loads.
     
  7. eurofreak2002

    eurofreak2002 Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    1,980
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    B-town 208
    Truck:
    80 STD SR5 LB, bagged! The new whip!
    Ok this is why I ask questions, THE ONLY wires coming from my fuse block in engine bay go to battery and then it seems they all disapear into the harness for the headlights. I dont see a split or junction anywhere that would be going to the alternator. I guess I will look harder tomorrow. As for battery only thing coming off it was power to engine bay fuse block and power to starter.

    So Lit you're saying I can run a jumper from my starter stud directly to my alternator and bypass engine bay fuse block wire once I find it?? Can I also just jump a wire from starter to engine bay fuse block??

    Thanks guys just dont wanna burn down my ride, seen it too many times before.
     
  8. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    2,414
    Likes Received:
    50
    Location:
    Cocoa, FL
    Truck:
    94 xtra cab
    Yes, you can jump from the starter to the alternator. I left the factory wire from the alternator to the fuse box, that wire goes from the alternator to the driver's side wheel well area where there is a stud in a plastic "box" of sorts that snaps open. I fed an accessory from that stud, so I left those wires intact.



    So, route the factory ground wire to the frame.

    The factory positive from the fuse box to the starter.

    Run a wire from the new battery location to the starter positive.

    Ground the new battery location to the frame.

    Make sure all connections are clean metal on metal using factory bolts if at all possible, and coat with cosmoline or similar corrosion inhibitor.

    And the alternator positive jumper is not required, but it does help.
     
  9. eurofreak2002

    eurofreak2002 Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    1,980
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    B-town 208
    Truck:
    80 STD SR5 LB, bagged! The new whip!
    Thanks guys got a lot of insight and a few small things cleared up for re-assurance purposes. I will git on this and take pics and let ya'll know what happens.
     
  10. suncomb1

    suncomb1 Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2009
    Messages:
    174
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Truck:
    1983 Toyota SR54x4 Mojave Edition-Black Package Shortbed Sport Truck
    DO NOT GROUND YOUR BATTERY TO THE TRANSMISSION!!! Go to the RON FRANCIS WIREWORKS WEB site. They have a lot of technical information on wiring your vehicle and there tech people are the best. I have been wiring street rods, customs and trucks for 30+ years. I have used their kits / components and I never had any problems with any vehicle I have wired.
     
  11. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    2,414
    Likes Received:
    50
    Location:
    Cocoa, FL
    Truck:
    94 xtra cab
    Easy big fella..... That was covered already.
     
  12. suncomb1

    suncomb1 Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2009
    Messages:
    174
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Truck:
    1983 Toyota SR54x4 Mojave Edition-Black Package Shortbed Sport Truck
    I did not mean to offend anybody it is just that I see so many people have electrical problems because they did not do it right the first time and they end up sitting by the road or worse. Many people give up on their trucks and sell them because they have so many electrical problems and I hate to see trucks go to the scrap yard especially Toyota first generation 2WD and 4WD models. Again, sorry if I got heavy.
     
  13. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    2,414
    Likes Received:
    50
    Location:
    Cocoa, FL
    Truck:
    94 xtra cab
    I agree. Scrapyards are for Hyundais.
     
  14. eurofreak2002

    eurofreak2002 Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    1,980
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    B-town 208
    Truck:
    80 STD SR5 LB, bagged! The new whip!
    Well lets not go that far! I've a high level of respect for people who trash their toyotas and they end up in junk yards....I like spare parts and they are hard to come by if idiots dont destroy stuff.

    Good handful of items on my truck are yard parts

    Thanks Everyone for the input, again I will get as many pics as possible and add them to my build thread. Just gotta figure out how to route my intake (im swapping sides) around my AC hoses
     
  15. eurofreak2002

    eurofreak2002 Toyotaholic

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    1,980
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    B-town 208
    Truck:
    80 STD SR5 LB, bagged! The new whip!
    Got a few things figured out and done on my near to none spare time schedule.

    Check out my build thread for pics.

    Got intake swapped, passenger side fender wires kinda tucked.

    Got battery location figured out and most wires ran to new location
     

Share This Page