Sourced a 1987 2wd MT long bed short cab driveshaft.
Can I use this?

 

that will work good. the xtra cab shortbed, and standard cab long bed sit on the same frame. all you need is the front section.

 

also, just grab a shift fork from a 4cyl manual truck. it will work fine. thats what im using on my w58.

 

My only concern is that my truck is the 1994 xcab and that's a 1987 longbed. Did Toyota change up the driveline length?

 

it should work nam. there are minor differences in the height of the body mounts between 84-88 and 89-95 on the frame. otherwise they swap with each other. drivetrain is the same.

 

Thanks, going to pick it up today.

 

Went to the salvage yard and the driveshaft from the 87 long bed manual 2wd is too long... it's a one piece.
fml...

 

Lol, just re-read my post and I meant to say 2-3' extension.... Feet not inches for them top bolts.

Anyway moving on... Is your stock auto shaft too short or long? Post up some measurements...

Btw- Did u grab the tranny mount bracket off that truck?

 

Mine's too short.
Nope, junkyards here don't really let people back there...


It's short by 3"

 

Tranny mounts are VERY similar from auto to 5spd.
Going to get my driveshaft lengthened 3" and balanced tomorrow for $135. not bad...
Then i gotta get clutch line made.

 

some of you don't have me on facebook.


off by 3inches

torqued up!



YOU guys need to help me here. 22RE TOBearing on 2JZ clutch fork. if I get it *right*, it sits perfectly and "snug".

seems to work okay?


getting this baby worked tomorrow, I asked them if they were gunna laugh at the paint and he said he'd cut it anyway. lol.



AND exactly how am I going to cut my floorpan? :/

 

put grease between the bearing and the fork, else you will get an anoying squeek..and on the fork pivot inside the trans bellhousing and the shaft that the throw out rides on. Also put grease inside the throwout where the shaft goes through too.

 

good gawd Nam. I've been busy as all hell with other stuff and haven't been on this forum for awhile. Looks as though you have your stuff handled. I'll try and get back to you asap with some extra drive shaft info when i can. Good luck buddy it looks as though you're elbow deep.

 

after reading through the thread it seems as though you're in the right direction in getting your lengthened drive shaft balanced local as opposed to trying to fit one in from my source. Good luck man.

 

How much do you need to cut out of the floor pan? I would either use a big f'n hammer or cut and reweld a new piece in. You can rent welders from the home depot if i can remember right.

 

you guys help me, I have no clue why my W58 isn't going in... shifter is out... and I just removed the shifter top from the transmission. Hopefully it'll give more space...
oh yeah, am i supposed to have the engine jacked up a bit in the rear? They said to put a block of wood between the engine and crossmember up front.

Here's a few pics of what I did to the interior. I cut a squarish shape since the W58 shifter is back further too. I see the place where the W55's sit.

Anyway, no pics of the actual cut *yet* BUT!, I cut two longer notches back and bent back the metal, hoping the transmission would get more room to slide in. nope, the bottom bulge of the tailhousing holds it back. The front of the bellhousing is touching the pressureplate housing. I'm thinking I need to jack up the back of the engine?


Thanks guys, SO much!

I'm so very close...
Driveshaft - $155. The guy used slightly bigger tubing then I wanted... 2.75" instead of 2.5".. so that was an extra $20... but I said ****it and just wanted it.
Clutch lines with fittings... ~$60. Hopefully it's long enough




^^ basically cut that exposed area and notched it back a bit to that middle piece.

My fellow W58's have experienced better synchro quality with this stuff...

 

if i read that right you have the back of the engine pointing up? no hang the back of the engine down a bit so you have a better angle to stab the transmission into the engine. Also sometimes the splines on the transmission hit the splines on the clutch disk, the easiest way to fix this is to spin the crank just a smidge, else you wont be able to get the trans in. How far is the trans going on? like is the tip of the input snout going in or not at all?

 

nope. The engine right now is in the "resting" state... The manuals say to put a block of wood between the oil pan and crossmember. There's a piece of foam in between...
I can barely get the tail shaft in between the floorpan and transmountmember...


my friend came back into town, I'm going to have him help me man the jack. I gotta get this thing in.. then I'll worry about doing the pedals and cutting the hole.

 

Hold up, you did put in a new pilot bearing in the crankshaft right?

As for getting the tail section up past the crossmember and the bell clearing the clutch, lay the trans on it's side. Right side to be exact. Once the bell clears the clutch you can turn it back upright to stab it in... A little bit of grease on the pilot shaft will help. Don't forget the dowel pins on the bellhousing.

If everything lines up it'll plop right in, I use the two bolts at 3&9 o'clock to pull it in the last 1/2" or so....

 

Yup, new pilot bearing and all. The clutch kit came with one!
on the right side...
WISH YOU SAID SO SOONER
I'll get on that.... transmission's tailshaft is against the floorpan now...

front of bellhousing on jack. i literally had to use my forearm to push the transmission up there. I'll post up in a few
thanks BYE!