Hey guys that are bagged. I have a question. I am re-doing my rear set up from the previous owner pretty much doing a hack job, and I have a question. My transmission pan looks as if it is below my framerails. Does the Z-notch and new trans crossmember fix this problem?
I believe Z-ing the frame does take care of that issue. Since the engine Xmember hangs below the rest of the frame
When you do a Z notch the engine mounts raise up at the same time which means you need to lower the engine mounts to suit. So Z'ing the frame properly wont fix your issue.
I didn't lower the engine mounts when I Z'd my frame. But yes, the tranny crossmember will help that issue whether you lower those mounts or not.
I will have to lower my engine when I do my z, considering I will be laying complete flat rocker. None of you have mentioned anything about my trans pan being lower than my frame though.
No you dont HAVE to drop the engine mounts, but if you want too keep all the driveline geometry correct then you do it, and if you want to bodydrop then you would want to as well if you want any chance of keeping the engine under the hood (depending on how far you go). If your not sure if the trans pan is lower than the frame or not just get a block of wood/steel or stringline and put it across the rails to see if its lower. If it is lower then you will either need a new trans crossmember or space up the trans mount to make sure it will be above the rails.
By raising the engine mounts with the "Z" 1 1/4" and raising the tranny mount 1 1/4" my driveline geometry is still the same as factory, I kept that in mind when I did it. That being said, with an auto tranny (which mine is) if you raised the tranny crossmember to get the pan to clear and kept the engine mounts at the same height to facilitate a body drop, you would change the driveline geometry. The pan on the manual isn't much different in height. When it comes down to it though, what is the "correct" driveline geometry? There isn't one, there are many. As long as the angle between the tranny and driveshaft is the same as the angle between the driveshaft and pinion, it's correct for a one piece driveshaft. With a two piece shaft on an extracab, ideally all the angles add up to zero. This all changes though on a bagged vehicle though depending on ride height and whether the pinion angle changes due to link design. Sorry I've gotten off track. The pan will clear with a raised crossmember...
DVSLUX, you are right. A body drop will require the engine to be lowered after the Z. I considered it, but didn't want to mess with clearancing the oil pan at that time.
No you dont have to lower engine for a "z". You have to either section (like mine) or build a new x member to lay flat.
