Hey so I tried running the fuel line without the regulator but with no success. So my thought is to get a new electric pump and run it and see what happens. So does anybody know if I can run the new one without taking out the old stock pump out of the tank.

 

Yes you can leave the stock pump in the tank and run an inline with no problem.

 

If it starts when u pump the gas it has fuel enough for it to idle. There is fuel getting to the bowl. The pcv valve won't really effect it idling. Check your idle screws to see if it's set correctly. Should be 2 1/2 - 3 1/2 I think something like that. When in doubt start back at the recommended setting.

GL

 

First off, Webers are designed to run 1-1.5 PSI period. Anything above 1.5 PSI and the carbs will flood (even with spring loaded seats). You should only run a Return type Fuel Pressure Regulator and make sure that the return line is large enough to not cause any line back pressure whatsoever. The Fuel Pump Located in the Fuel tank is a High Pressure pump and may requrie a second fuel pressure regulator installed into the fuel supply line to reduce the fuel supply pressure; 3-4 PSI supply pressure is plenty then adjust the return fuel pressure regulator for 1 PSI at the carbs. Do not try and run Weber carbs as they come out of the box. You must install Jets, Chokes, etc that will work with your engine and driving conditions. Most Weber carb conversions are eventually discarded because they never live up to the expectations of their owners. You have to do your homework, install the right components for your application and take your time. The end result is a setup that will far out perform most fuel injection systems.

 

Ya I have the regulator and the gauge and carbs installed. I jus found out that I have nothin connected for the choke. My truck never had a manual choke so I don kno what to do to set up one. I need some advice

 

Here bro watch this video, its similar and will get you familiarized with how sidedrafts work... Click: 190SL Solex 44PHH Carburetor Tuning - YouTube

 

Thank you everyone for all the info. It is helpin I jus gotta get a couple of things together and see if I can rig up the choke on the carbs. I bought an external fuel pump to fun on the truck and I am going to see where I get with that. If I can build pressure at the carbs at least I'll know I can get fuel and then start the tuning

 

You do not need to use the chokes on Weber side drafts. Just pump the throttle about 3 times and your truck should start.

 

hey guys thanks again for all the help you have given me. so as an update i found that the fuel pump was getting power at all. after i supplied power i now have a consistent 3psi at the carbs. only problem now is the truck still doesnt start i am going to check the rest of the electrical and charge the battery and see how she does but it looks like i got a bit of electric work ahead of me cause the headlights are not workin either. haha the joy of owning an old truck

 

Sorry, but this isn't correct. I got out of carbs a few years ago as I got tired of screwing with them.. but all the weber documentation I had said 3-3.5 PSI.. I've also had that value given to me by Redline Weber's tech support years ago..

What do you define as 'high pressure'? All the in-tank pumps on my 75+ Celicas have been 6-8 PSI generally.. certainly not enough to warrant a second fuel pressure reg..

No argument here.. To the original poster, you said you bought them new, who'd you buy them from? In my dealings when Redline they generally shipped setups with a fair guess baseline for the motor.. certainly enough to get you running.. and their tech support is (was) great.. if it was from someone else.. err.. dunno what to tell ya

Sorry, but no. What's this statement based on?

75hilux - get yourself a synchrometer ..avoid the awful edelbrock 'floating pea in a tube' type as our motors dont flow enough to make them work well.. find one like this: ACC-C10-7125 - DELUXE CARBURETOR SYNCHROMETER TOOL .. (the site above has an american version too..) .. learn how to use it .. and, if you start having to swap jets, expect to spend a bunch of money on various sizes of jets..

Webers sound like a dream at wide-open-throttle.. but after that, they were a pain in the ass.. sold all my stuff years ago and moved into aftermarket EFI.. will never go back.

 

I bought them from lc engineering, they helped put everythin together and set me up with jets for a stock motor so I'm not worried there. I havnt ran into assembly problems jus had a couple of mishaps with the truck as it is over 30 years old I expect em. I think the only thing I need is to get all the electrical right and everythin should be fine I hope

 

Hey how would u kno if ur ignitor took a dive

 

No spark during cranking. I believe your year has a points type distributor so check that first (its a cheaper part)...

 

Ya so I got spark and fuel but no start still. I been rackin my brain with this wiring trying to see if it's a wiring issue. I have my pump turn on with a switch now and I have spark while cranking wth am I missing.

 

Hey guys i wanna start by saying. Thank u for all ur help and input on my truck... great news i figured it out... the stock setup on my truck had a thermal controlled choke and the Weber's have a manual choke.... duhhh.... i opened the choke and she runs.... the headlight problem was due to a bad relay i found later.... once again thank u for everything and i will be posting pics and hopefully a dyno run when i get it tuned and dialed .....

 

You run what kind of intake? You straight insulator or intake manifold. Center pull or dog bones do? Trying to narrow down.