I have a 1986 and plan on buying a 20r head to replace my 22r. Does any1 know what all that needs to be done for this upgrade? Any and ALL advice will be appreciated! Thanx
Tony, screen name B.Y.E. did this headswap on a laser motor. He had to machine the head a lot and a few other things. Check out his build thread, or PM him. He knows all the details of the laser hybrid.
Is there any particular reason in doing this swap besides a few bump in compression points? I don't understand what all the hype is about if by porting the stock 22r head, you will get it to flow better than the 20r.
there is nothing you can do to a 22r head to make it flow like a stock 20r head. well you could but it would cost way more then anyone should invest.
I don't know all the details, just enough to make it work... Porting would have to be extensive and you'd still have to work on the chambers on the laser head as the peanut design shrouds the valves, impeding flow... But, it can be done just more work and $$ involved... Agreed
Pretty brave to make such a bold statement! There is so much conflicting information about which head is better and so little information on the actual facts. Just because companies like LC Engineering and Toysport says something is better doesn't make it so. And just because a head flows better doesn't mean its the right choice. And where are the flow bench numbers showing the difference between the two heads. Pretty common scenario here...blind leading the blind I agree with you here. Late 22r heads and 22re (from laserblock) have valve shrouding. Quite NOTICEABLE valve shrouding at that, but valve shrouding only affects performance at certain intake lifts. Choosing the correct camshaft and performing the machine work to un-shroud or relieve the valves will correct this at a low price. I do not agree with you on the cost. For me, installing 1mm os stainless valves, new bronze guides, and decking the head cost around $160 and that is also after they un-shrouded the valves. The machine shop I used was Lanier’s Speed Shop, Colorado Springs, CO. I didn’t have any port work done except for gasket and intake matching in which i’ve done myself. Although, looking down the intake runners show very little restrictions. So what exactly impedes flow in the 22r despite it’s hemi design, shroud inducing, peanut shaped combustion chamber? Guahan671, your calling this an upgrade. What are you expecting to happen? What do you want out of your ride?
Think its all a mater of application your going for. The main difference in head designs are vortex notches on the 22r head; those ledges that come up and around the valve within the actual ports in the head drastically change how air in the ports moves. The 22r head in stock form with vortex notches is great for low end torque; Its what you would want in a truck with long stroke motor that's going to be used as a truck. Vortex notches hurt your mid range and top end. Ports on the 22r head are also much larger than those on the 20r head so completely removing the vortex notches would probably not work well unless you were going forced induction. The 20r head has no vortex notches; even in stock form, its essentially a straight shot to the valves and thus will be much more friendly to mid and top end performance. Loss of vortex notches isnt too bad for the low range as the head has smaller ports. Modifications to the 20r head will almost always be simpler because it is physically simpler.
It allows you to rev the motor higher and thats how you build horsepower. The 22R is a great head for what it was designed for. A torquey little bastard of a motor. The 20R is what will let you build power at those 6, 7, and 8+ thousand RPMS where a 22R head just cant breathe at. And the chamber design is superior albeit bigger. So time for 20R sex pix.
^one day I'll afford stage 5 valves! They look so at home in there... Keka- From my experience with the early (84-older) hybrid. The 20r head is definitely an upgrade. My butt dyno says so... Lol! In this case with the laser (85-later) hybrid, I have no experience using a 22r head. I set out to run the 20r head from the get go based on the hype of flow characteristics and my logical reasoning... That and I got a sweet deal on a head that had 1 size over SS valves and the required milling done already. Will I go back and try a worked late 22r head? Sure but, it'll have to be a sweeter deal for to me to do so... Regarding costs... For that same amount you paid on the 22r head, I'd opt to keep the stock valves and instead have a 3 angle valve grind done on a 20r. If I had extra funds I'd invest in dual valve springs. That should put me in a happier top end and some change in my pocket. Cost gets higher when milling the 20r to build a laser (85+) hybrid. But, I'd still end up with a happier top end motor if that was all the machine work done while keeping everything else stock... This is one of those debates that goes round and round... Ultimately it depends on the owners goal and engine purpose. I'm happy with what i built and I'm capable of tuning for what purpose I need my truck for. That and I only spent in the neighborhood of $800 to build it and that includes shortblock machine work and some good used parts... Like mentioned earlier, keep it simple and the end results will be more than expected.
If your going to opt for a 3 angle valve job on the 20r head that means you'll be cutting the seats down and re-lapping the valves anyway; the stock seats are big enough to accommodate 1mm oversize valves (they will be ground out to the very edges of the seats) those + a set of new guides shouldn't be too much extra cash. How much oomph you'll get out of them without porting the head is the big question.
I'm convinced but still a little skeptical?!?! I guess if you want a higher reving motor, the 20r head on the 22r block is the way to go. I had a semi built 22r that rev'd happily to 6200 and I was happy with it. Never tried doing a 20r/22r hybrid so I guess thats why i'm skeptical. How far are you guys reving these motors to? And i'm sorry if I came off as a dick guys.
