Here's my old truck tht was cranked torsions don't kno how much but those are 17s and I cudnt go over speed bumps
Rekey = torsion bar is like a big screw effectively with a hex head and has a key on the end think like a socket take it off turn it one or two sections and put back on. there are pics on the forums here.
I can't believe some people actually think that it is ok to remove the torsion bars. Would you drive around in a car with out any springs? And I call complete bull sh!t on your clams of not having a bumpy/bouncy ride. Please explain to me how it would be possible to not have a bumpy/bouncy ride while driving a truck with 100% of the front weight riding on nothing but your rubber bump stops?
I am thinking he meant pulling the bump stops out, not the torsions. Although, I wouldn't advise completely removing the bump stops either.
Well, the point still remains that even if you remove them and the LCA hits the mounts, thats as low as you can go. When my truck was static, I had an approx. 3/3 drop with sway-a-way torsions, toxic shocks, and drop leaves and still bottomed out occasionally with the bump stops removed. And, two inches of that was from drop spindles... I would never recommend going any further than that in the front, too many potential headaches. I do think it looks good though.
Could someone explain what benefit it would be to re-index the torsion bars. I'm having difficulty picturing any positive outcome to it. The only way that makes any sense would be to add preload to the bars while lifting the truck. It doesn't make any sense for a lowered pickup.
The only think I can think of is to tuck the adjusters up more inside the cross member to avoid hitting them on the road.
I re indexed the torsions on my nissan. Essentially it would only be preloading the torsions. The ride was too dam soft so i reindexed the torsion and the key. It did actually seem to stiffen up the ride. I turned the torsions 2 splines counterclock wise on the left and clockwise on right. Dont remember how much i trned the keys tho. My idea was, wen u tighten the bolt on the key it torques the torsion(best way i can think of sayin it) so if u turn the torsion a few splines opposite the direction of which the key twists it it should preload the suspension at a lower height, therefore stiffening the ride wile being lowered.
^ true. Thats how i did mine. i pulled them out alittle bit and turned them like one or two keys on each side and then i loosened the bolts and lowered the torsions down. Keeping some of my ride quality so its not so bouncy.
Ok, but here's the problem with that line of thinking. If you have 1000 lbs on the torsion bar, it will twist 25 degrees (let's say). You can reindex the key, but even after that the same 1000 lbs will only twist the bar 25 degrees. You can't change the spring rate of the torsion bar by indexing it, so the only way to stiffen up the ride by doing so would be to crank them all the way up (lifting the truck) until you bind the suspension at full droop. Once you reach full droop, any additional crankage would result in preload. Other than EFNetOper's idea of tucking the key out of harm's way, I don't see how reindexing them can do anything for a lowered ride.
