So in the attempt to build a slightly hot-rodded 22r, I bought all of the goodies to assemble a killer cylinder head, including: LC stage-3 cam, dual valve springs w/ moly retainers, bronze valve guides, viton valve seals, and SS oversized valves. All of this of course is going together with a 38 Weber, Offy intake, and header. All I needed was to get the head machined and ported... Well, I have a friend who was telling me about his hookup at a local machine shop where they build mostly race engines. I took the the cylinder head to said machine shop to get a price quote on the port work. The machinist who does the porting work explained to me that with the porting, big valves and stage 3 cam, i would have a loss of power due to my stock rotating assembly. He says that without bigger, H/C pistons, I would lose all of my air charge because there would not be enough of a vacuum(or scavenging) effect coming from the standard pistons. He says that this info comes from building "many" 22r's. He also added that the porting of the 22r head is not worth the time and effort for such little gain, and that he has discontinued any kind of porting job on those heads. Funny thing is that I have read all over the internet that when ported right, these heads flow amazing! Even though what he said about me losing my "air charge" due to the stock pistons makes sense to me, I am still in denial because I have all of these expensive parts and am being told they will not work correctly I would appreciate any opinions on this subject. Is this guy right, or should I go somewhere else and get the port work done? Thank you.
From what I learned with my 22R hybrid.... You cant make the ports big enough! I worked them out as far as they would go and the stock bottom end loves it. Not a noticable loss of low end torque, but the thing pulls like a banshee at 4K+ rpms... But I never messed with the 22R head. I dont know if you should cut out the swirl edge thing. I guess i would (I think LC stage 5's are gone). Make the bowls bigger/smoother. You wont lose power with stock pistons. Especially with such a mild build. You just wont make as much as you would with 11:1 compression. I did all the porting myself...Why dont you?
See, that is what I thought! I am not worried about a loss of bottom end, I know some will be expected. I really should just do it myself, I am sure there are 100 different write-ups on how to do it. Living on a Navy base does not give me many options as to having the ability to work on it and having the right tools. Thanks for the info!
i just read this very good wright up on porting a head and intake here http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/technical/diyport.pdf
I have a 22R LC head with all the goodies you mentioned on my motor. My bottom end is rebuilt with stock pistons and rods and ARP main studs, rod bolts, and head bolts. (I also have dual 40's and the LC 9lb flywheel.) There's no loss of power due to the stock pistons like your machine shop guy says there would be. Sure, some lighter forged pistons with higher compression would make more power, but stock pistons aren't going to make you lose power.
here's my opinion...... other people in the toyota business such as lce "know" how to port these heads out to make real power out of them. hence, there IS a way and some people obviously know how to port them to pull the power out. the only real difference i see here between the guy workin at the shop and you is 2 things. experience, and the ability to bench flow the heads. all this does is make it to where they can balance out the flow through each individual port and match them up using that method. im sure you can hog it out to limits and come somewhere close. thing is you will get gain no matter what. how smooth it will run however is a different story so...... its really going at it at your own risk. me personally, ive done porting on small motors and motorcycle motors too. i noticed big gains out of the motors i built when i did port them. allot does have to do with the rest of the motors components and how well you can match them to what you are trying to put together. a good balanced bottom end that can spin with the greatest of ease will free up lots of power and make everything last longer. keep in mind you are changing the aimed purpose of the motor and engineering that went into the motor being mainly used as a work horse. or in other words, trying to turn a donkey into a purebreed race horse..... catch my meaning? me personally, go to someone that can understand what you are trying to accomplish. im sure your friend meant well and understands but, i like to hear more of someone taking on a job despite the challenge to get you the best possible results....... but thats just me wait for a few more guys to chime in on this and listen to what they got to say
don't go too far... you want to smooth the flow of the intake charge itself, but don't open it too much or you lose the intake charge's velocity. but listen to SD ^^ lol
Yes, I completely understand the fact that I am trying to make a race engine out of something that was never intended to be so... That is the point haha I do all of my own work on my Toyota's (except when I lock myself out of my truck and need help breaking back in..Thanks SD), but I am not experienced enough to try and start ruining a head by trying to port it myself. I just needed some reassurance that the ported head will not completely ruin my setup as stated by the machine shop. I know what you are getting at SD, I just dont think the guy wanted to bother with my business honestly. He was talking me out of it before I even finished what I was saying.... Thanks for the input guys..
UPGRADE radiators mine blew up under pressure of my new built motor now my trucks and expensive sprinkler system
.....You guys are making this sound more complicated than it is. Yes, balance is important. But it is a 4cyl with a inherited even balance. I agree on the ports too, but almost anything is better than stock. Eyeball it and youll get it fine. (The old ford/chevy/dodge 427/409/426 hotrodders didnt have flowbenches and made redicoulus power back in the early 60's...) And here some insperation. My truck has stock (quiet) exhaust system (no header. 1.75 exhaust pipe). 3.42 open diff and still ran this hard....Thats the holley singing... YouTube - Raffaelli2XR's Channel Keep it simple. Its not a radical engine your building. Simple and strong is all you need.
