Hello from Duvall, WA

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Gaagii, Apr 10, 2011.

  1. Gaagii

    Gaagii Newbie

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    Truck:
    1979 Toyota long Bed
    My wife just bought a 1979 Toyota long bed (with a 20R). It is nice to have a car that we can actually work on.
    We recently got a quote of $1K on some brake work. We did it ourselves, determined neither the rotors nor drums needed to be replaced, and ended up spending less then $200. My wife was skeptical at first, but I showed her some how-to videos and descriptions and she was all gung-ho!
    Friday the car wouldn't start, we diagnosed it as not getting fuel, replaced a fairly clogged fuel filter, checked the relay (had to take it apart because we couldn't find an accurate spec) and have determined it is either the connection to or the in-tank fuel pump. We didn't want to, but we see no other option, tomorrow she is going to drain the fuel when I am at work and we are going to drop the fuel tank - and most likely replace the pump.
    Anyway, had it for a week and the fun has just begun!
     
  2. Raffaelli

    Raffaelli Toyotaholic

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    Location:
    Houston
    Truck:
    82 Longbed 2WD
    First off, welcome!

    Secondly, I dont think your truck has an electric in tank pump. :shrug: Should be bolted to the side of the head :waytogo:
     
  3. Chzyrider

    Chzyrider Newbie

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    Location:
    Salem, Or.
    Truck:
    '83 S-10 Blazer 4x4, '94 K1500 Z-71, and FOR SALE: 1989 Toyota 4x4 Pickup
    Yup, the joys of used cars/trucks. There's always a reason why they are selling it, and often parts they were neglecting to fix because they are selling it.
    You can test the pos signal to the pump (if electronic pump for fuel injection) when key-on (not start) and test ground for good continuity. Or test for fuel flow to the carb when cranking if carb equipped...if carb, the pump should mounted directly to the engine.
    If no signal, test wire connections in system back to relay (click or no click w/ key-on), and/or to fusebox / key switch. If you got power to the pump, listen for the (1-2 second) buzz sound of the in-tank pump as it pressurizes the sytem. If no sound heard, you can double-check for flow to the engine with key-on.... or test at schreader valve for any existing pressure, be careful to catch the fuel either way. If you got signal to the pump, but no flow... replace the pump.

    I would also suggest rinsing/flushing the tank before refilling.
     
  4. Ruffles

    Ruffles Enthusiast

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    Location:
    Tent City, Washington
    Truck:
    80 SR5
    welcome to the site. i also say the fuel pump is more than likely on the side of the head. i own a 80 with a 20r and thats where my fuel pump is. but anyways, good luck with the fix and once again welcome to the site!!!
     
  5. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    An old friend of mine had a 79 with a 20R and a electric pump..
     
  6. nvrenufedge

    nvrenufedge Grand Toyotaholic

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    Location:
    Caldwell, ID
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    bagged '93 std cab
    Welcome to TM!
     
  7. Gaagii

    Gaagii Newbie

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    Truck:
    1979 Toyota long Bed
    Positive it is electric and in the tank

    I wish it were the case, but it is definitly in the tank. The spot where it would bolt onto the block has a nice bolt hole waiting for it. I don't know if this was modified, my wife thinks it was, I think it wasn't.
     
  8. Gaagii

    Gaagii Newbie

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    Truck:
    1979 Toyota long Bed

    Glad :clapping: I am not the only one. Hopefully the Haynes manual will shed some light on this, perhaps some late year change, or something special for CA.
     
  9. Gaagii

    Gaagii Newbie

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    Truck:
    1979 Toyota long Bed
    It is either the wire going from the relay to the fuel pump or the fuel pump itself, either way we have to drop the tank.

    I will have to look into what to use to flush a fuel tank :thinking:, but sound like a great idea!
     

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