Heeelp!!

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by DURDYYOTA, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    hey all i am looking for some help on routing my vacuum lines on my 77 toyota with a 20r. i bought the truck from a hillbilly and its all fukd up. been searching for a while but cant find much. the sticker under the hood only tells me half because of all the fading/cracking it just not reliable for info. any help is appreciated, including what i can hook up minimum. and plz dont tell me to get a weber
     
  2. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    yank all that crap off and get a mikuni!



    You did say not to tell you to get a weber... :ROFL:



    All that it needs for proper running is the vacuum advance hooked up. The forward diaphragm line (closest to the radiator) goes to the intake or carb baseplate port with vacuum at idle and the rearward port on the advance goes to a ported line higher up on the carb body that has no vacuum at idle but it does with the throttle opened. Other than that I'm no help, I always yank all that garbage off. :D
     
  3. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    lol..true about the weber lmao. thats pretty much what i was lookin for. thanks alot man!!
     
  4. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    mabye i didnt understand this right....or im a retard. dont know as much about carbs as i should. by vacuum adv. we are talkin distributer. that i know. what i dont get is i only have one port coming from the dizzy, where is the other located?
    if all i need is these two lines i can cap the rest of the ports from the carb right?
    mabye a picture would help me understand
     
  5. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Ahh so you only have a single advance distributor. I always ASSume that all the older stuff is dual diaphragm. In that case hook that line up to the ported vacuum.

    yes, all the other garbage can be eliminated.
     
  6. Blasito

    Blasito Enthusiast

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    isnt the brake booster vac line kind of important too?
     
  7. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    Bah...who needs a brake booster lol
     
  8. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Only if you want to stop in reasonable distance. :D

    It isn't connected to the carb so I left it out of the equation. If you want to go that far the PCV is also good to have around. Sure you can just let if vent on it's own but a vacuum on the crank case helps reduce windage and keeps the rings sealing.
     
  9. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    yeah i left all that **** alone....just did what you said and truck runs good....not great but itll do i guess....mabye one of you may know about this one. when i just drive like an old lady it does fine but when i give her some juice it stalls out and the carb drains out. my fuel tank is currently in the bed and using a vibrator pump that is installed on the inner fender. if i blow air and pressureize (sp) the tank the pump gets its prime and all is well, any thoughts? i was told the pump should be close to the tank but it seems this is where it goes but i have no clue.
    thanks again
    brad
     
  10. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Put the pump by the tank. Electric pumps don't like to suck, if they are mounted up high they will live a short life. Losing the prime is running that pump dry which also shortens it's life.
     
  11. Blasito

    Blasito Enthusiast

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    wise words
     
  12. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    indeed, wish i woulda done it sooner, damn thing left me walkin home from work yesterday. bah ill do it on my next day off so i can put it on a lift. thanks for all the help guys!
     
  13. Blasito

    Blasito Enthusiast

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    :( that sux man
     
  14. DURDYYOTA

    DURDYYOTA Newbie

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    fixd the issue... put the pump in the bed right next to my tank, things rips down the road now with no issues. thanx again guys
     
  15. oldschool64bus

    oldschool64bus Veteran

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    my old 77 had an in tank pump
     

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