I was looking at the Anti-Hack photos from can-do's build. Has anyone else pocketed the frame for more bag clearance like that? Is it neccisary? I haven't seen a whole lot of front mount pics , but the few I have weren't pocketed like that. I understand the closer the bag to frame , the more lift you get. Can anyone else post up pics of theres? I'm using stock upper and lowers with belltech 2' drop spindles and Slam RE6's. Any help is appreciated.

Link to pics :This is were it all started. Over 600 pics of just the frame work. At www.streettrucksmag.com they will post tech articles as they progress. Photos from Steve NIELSEN (CanDo INSTALLS) on Myspace


Here's one :


Versus the no-pocket mount:


Hope Seth dosen't mind me using his picture. Just realized the pic was from his site kinda answering my question because I know he's knowledgeable on these matters... LOL. Opinions????

 

Not necessary but i think it makes up the lift that gets lost with a BD and i think the 2" the wheel is moved up with drop spindles. Wont entirely make up for it but it should help

Thats what I think, i could be wrong tho

 

bump... Anyone else?

 

Ya it gets more lift and I believe takes less psi to get to ride height and better ride. Not positive but thts what I'm guessing. It says with cando arms you can get 12-15"s of lift by notching it like tht

 

Yup same as the rear, bigger bag, less PSI to lift it

 

Now when you move the bag in like that is there room in there to mount the shock next to it. Like inline with the bag because I know some prerunner suspensions your are able to mount a coilover and bypass shock inline.

 

On bagged trucks the shock isn't next to the bag usually it's at an angle off the side of the control arm then to the frame.

 

The main reason for the pocket is to get a RE7 in there, or 2600lb bag as close to the pivot point as possible. And have the bracket sit at the same angle as the lower control arm. I have RE7's all around now, and it rides completely different than it did with RE6's in the front. I love it. Im riding on less air, so its not as stiff feeling. I have the CanDo uppers and stock lowers that have been triangulated. I plan to either make my own or get the lowers from CanDo some day, so I set up everything for those arms, which made me have to put a spacer under the airbag.









Ham Sandwich.

 

Yeah I know thats where it usually goes, but by moving it in can you gain enough room to run it within the arm to gain steering space, or is it still a tight fit and the benifits dont outway the cons.

 

Shock is mounted really close to the bag to get it out of the path of the steering.

 

Always run a shock absorber with an airbag. They are balloons. The shock will make them fell and ack more like a spring.

 

Feel and act like a spring.

 

You dont really need to pocket the frame unless you are going to run a large bag like an RE7. I ran an RE7 on my blue truck, and pocketed the frame. It rode pretty good. But I have actually gotten a better ride out of a different bag and shock combo, without pocketing the frame. I just did mine without pocketing the frame.


I dont need much lift, set up like this I get 9 inches with a Contitech and 10 inches with a Slam SS6. Bigger bag is nice if you want a lot of lift, and I didnt have to run much pressure in them to get to my ride height. This truck I want a bit firmer ride than my last one.

 

ok just looked at the pictures, I can see that the shock wouldnt fit inline with the bag. I guess im new to this lowered stuff. I guess the days of having a truck that rides like crap are over. When it comes to bag mine Im looking for it to ride nice.

 

Cool man thanks for the help. I don't think I'm going to pocket mine. Not sure it's neccisary for my plans. Your truck is way sick man. Lovin' it.

 

Thats very true. When I did my RE7 sway the bag mounting point stayed the same as it was with an RE6, I just needed more clearance on the back side since the bag is 1" larger.

 

Sounds good guys. Thanks for all the help. RE 6 will be fine for me with no-pocket... Any ride is better than the ride I had... Lol It was bad. Any of you guys going to be @ Forbidden Fantasy? I'm planning on grabbing some parts there this weekend to get the ball really rolling on my truck... Still need to build my 4- link then then the real progress starts... Also, 1 more question... Is there anything I need to take in consideration when bagging the front before rear and vice versa? The reason I ask is because I have the inner fenderwells clearanced already in the front and the new 2' drop spindles on... So the only thing left is cutting out and measuring for the front bag plate... But the rear is still up there with the 3' blocks still in... Will the rear laying out affect the front enough to matter? I know its alot of rookie questions, but I dont wanna do anything twice as this is my 1st bag job... Again, thanks for all the help. Oh yea... also, as far as upper bag plate goes... Should it be parallel to LCA at ride height? I'm not sure what my ride height is gonna be...lol I saw a post somewhere saying while laid out the LCA can be 1/2' in from upper. Not sure how to go about stting this up either...

 

Bump