This is the 4-link i'm going to buy.

Super Llift Wishbone Kit | qualityairride.com

In the picture it shows poly bushings on all pivots of the wishbone... My question is isin't it supposed to have a heim in the single end that way it doesent bind when hitting sides? Otherwise I see it binding.Does this mean I need upper triangulated bars instead of a wishbone setup?


Also... They want bar lengths when ordering. We roughly figured the axel centerline to the crossmember we are building to be 29 1/8'. So how exactly should I calculate my bar lengths? I have a link to a 4 link calculator thats a little difficult for me to get... I know it's not rocket science. And the uppers and lowers supposed to be the same length , correct? if nothing else I hear the uppers can be a lil shorter. And I'm also told when setting up your bars, the lowers should be parallel to ground at ride height?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to be sure on all of this. I'm mid-project here , and I dont want to make any mistakes.Oh by the way, I've read up and searched my @$$ off on this subject and am still unclear on these few things. Any help is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance...

If you wanna check out my build thread you can find it here : http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/build-up-project-threads-25/under-construction-93-gets-bagged-8964/

 

Ok man when you send him this info just tell him this is something your thinking of and if they got anything like this. Send this email to Steve at Cando specialties.

[email protected]

He will be able to answer all your questions and then some however I would then suggest buying from him.

 

Sounds good. Guess I'll go with a full 4 link no wishbone... And still wondering if uppers and lowers should be same length???

 

Already talked to Steve @ CanDo... His price for a forward 4 link was a little steep and he really likes to push his reverse setup. The reverse setup is fine , I just want to do a forward setup (personal preference) Steve is a really cool guy to talk to and really backs his product (which is refreshing ). But I think for the road I'm going, this link kit will be better. I really want his upper and lower controll arms, but they are not in my bag budget...

 

I was hoping to hear some opinions from Seth from Twisted Minis on here... Followed alot of his threads on this and other sites... The guy really knows his stuff... Problem being is I cant find enough detailed info...Thanks again guys for the help... Any one else???

 

Length does not have to be equal because the upper bars will have to be at a angle

 

I mean equal in length from attaching points... Like from a side view... Not neccisarily overall length.

 

PM Seth. He answered my questions really quik wen i hit him up.

 

Thanks. Will do.

 

Okay I am just going to answer your questions here so that other people can see them also.


1) A triangulated 4 link with individual uppers is better than a wishbone kit because it splits the lateral stress between 2 joints rather than one?

Not true. The single pivot will see more load, but that doesn't make a 4-link better specifically for that reason. Every link setup has its purpose. On a wishbone the single pivot just needs to be strong enough to handle the loads it will see. You can use a 3/4" spherical rod end (Heim is a brand) on a wishbone and it is plenty strong. This beauty of a wishbone is that it will solidly locate your axle laterally no matter what. So if you have a narrow frame a long bars, you probably can't get enough triangulation to keep your axle centered, so a wishbone is best. There are some applications where a wishbone is better, and some where it is not. My latest project a wishbone would not have worked at all, so a 4-link was my choice. But I commonly use wishbones. I could really ramble on this subject, because knowing when which one is best is difficult to say. I am just trying to give a general answer right now, if you have more specific questions let me know.


2) The upper and lower bars should be equal in length from a side view (ex: their attaching points from front to rear not overall length.)

Not true. Your upper bars should be about 70-80% of the length of your lower bars. This has to do with roll steer, and tuning it. But that is also a lengthy subject. My last setup had 29.5" lowers and 24" uppers.



3) The lowers should be parallel to the ground at ride height?

Yes and no. It would be best to have your lower bars level or angle up slightly (the higher end being towards the front of the car) at half travel. So if you get 8 inches of lift, set it up at 4 inches and make your lower bars level or angled up a few degrees at that height. There are many benefits to doing this. I like using longer lower tabs to help achieve this, and keep the instant center where I want it instead of higher if I use short axle tabs.

I'm trying to keep my answers short, there is so much information here, and so many variables that I could go on forever. Everything I mention can bring on a whole new set of questions. Hopefully this helps.

 

Here is a video of link travel, set up with lower bars angle up 3 degrees at ride height, lowers triangulated, instant center in the center of the engine block 10 inches up from ground at half travel, 1 degree of pinion angle change through 9 inches of travel.

YouTube - ‪4-Link Travel‬‏

 

Thanks alot man. That really helps alot. The only problem I find is how to exactly calculate the uppers off of the lowers. Turns out I'm going to build my own bars because nobody stocks what I need or has a decent turnaround time for building them... I plan on making the lowers non-adjustable and the uppers adj. by way of poly bushings with threaded ends, I'll post up exact measurments when I have them in stone. The plan is to run 1/4' wall 2x2 for the lowers to keep them strong (bag on lower). And 1.5 uppers. Does this sound about right????

 

That sounds okay, just really have lowers. Lot of unsprung weight. I do build 4-links, and with faster turnaround than most that do custom ones. I do my lowers a little different to save weight and still be stronger.

 

Pm Me and maybe I could pay you to make my 4 link... Suicide doors wanted 3-5 weeks and that seemed a little long to me. I can give you measurements and maybe we can work something out... ???

 

I can ship it in about a week and a half. Usually I am faster, but I just used the last of my bushings and stuff doing a few recently. I will send a message.