on mine there is slug fitting on the white side, it cannot be switched over to the orange side. one carb i looked at on craigslist had that nipple broken off like someone tried to unscrew it and it broke on em. the brass fitting on the bottom of it, im not 100% on what that does, i havnt had to mess with mine.

in the situation like yours i would just run the fuel line to the other side nipple and make it work, or call redline and tell em the situation and have em send you the correct carb time permitting.

EDIT::: i just saw you have a banjo fitting style, you can go to home depot or an auto supply store with your current banjo fitting and find one that has a 90 degree bend to it after the opening. I would love to have one of those instead of the hose and clamp style im running on mine.

 

you should get ahold of carbs unlimited they deal with webers alot and im sure someone there can help you, there in auburn and kent..sorry i cant help more than that

 

another note. i see you have the vacume supply hooked to your distributor, you are going to want to check to see if those diaphrams are leaking, it will really screw your timing if they are busted like mine is. easy way to check is to hook up a cheapo vaccum pump and see if it holds vaccume with the truck not running, if it does cool leave it hooked up, if not disconnect it and plug the port on the intake. mine was leaking and would peg my timing 12 degrees advanced from where ever i would set it....

 

HAHA wow

thanks dude.. lol hopefully i get mine on and goin first lol jk but seriously...

ahhhh this is what i wanted to hear... i was havin so many people tellin me that it screws out, and then there tellin me "i wouldnt be tryin to tap threads in that".. today after work i got the threads and a new fittin on the other side. Fuel lines hooked up. Still gotta figure out what to do wiith the other fitting tho.

thanks thats good info.

well when i got the truck that wac line was missing but wasnt capped off... I thought it would screw up the timing not having it hooked up.

Would the DUI system take care of this?

Also carb has been thru a couple few peeps, but not used, so im thinkin exchanging it is out of the question... lol.

Thanks guys

 

that banjo fitting thats still connected to the fuel line is for the stock carb you need to take that off and just hook the rubber line to the nipple on the carb

 

Hey all the carbs on and everythings hooked up...... Awesome thing is.. Now it wont start FAIL for me...


I guess i'll look into it tommorow.. All i got was a sputter, and thats been it so far....

 

i posted what you needed to know..

but nobody listens to me




and to correct some false words going on in this thread....




THERE IS NO BANJO FITTING ON THAT CARB.

ITS A FILTER COVER


you should be able to remove the filter cover (aka banjo bolt) take the filter out and unscrew the brass bit inside.

if it wont come out, like staked in place or something. dont F with it, contact www.carbsunlimited.com in auburn to see about a new lid or modifying yours.


also make sure you got the carb put back together right. always blame what you just "fixed" if now it doesnt work

 

Im trying to listen.. lol... Im going to contact them tommorow and see if i can get one... buuuttt since i have this one on and hooked up.... gonna make sure i put it back together right, tommorow.

All this banjo talks got me hella confused.. Are we talking bout the brass fitting in the bottom part of the lid.. Theres a little white filter lookin thing right? It stays right? Sorry just trying to make sure i understand...

"also make sure you got the carb put back together right. always blame what you just "fixed" if now it doesnt work" this made me laugh but its so true..

 

sho i was taking about this banjo fitting that needs to come off the fuel line not the weber itself

 

Ok so i took a break from working on it, now im ready again... Got some more questions too.. My weber came with a brass fitting and a plate for the egr on the head, intake side. Instructions say its for the pcv valve.

From what i understand everyone deletes egr, but i dont see any with a hose routed from the pcv on valve cover to the egr spot on the head.

Also on the bottom of the filter theres a hole, no fitting just a hole... This is for the other spot on the valve cover... Correct? Do i need to buy a fitting for this? I have a breather filter that i could put on the front one. What does everyone use to block off the hole in the bottom of the filter?

Thanks.

 

so.. i finnally got it running.. about to go on a test drive... yippy! lol..

i'll let u know how that goes soon enough...

Well... i went for a short test drive and it ran pretty good.. There was however a slight hesitation stumble at take off. I was thinking my fuel pressure. Mines set at 2 1/2lbs but teh instructions say 2lbs, or would it stumble throughout the rpm band? Or could it be my settings are too rich? Or maybe im just not use to driving it... Also gonna pick up another fuel filter tommorow cause the one i just got was pretty dirty but is clearing up....

LOL... hell i know what i need to do, i just gotta do it.. Just updatin you all, and i'll take any input..

 

Ok since you all like pictures soo much. Heres a few of my 1977 Toyota. I'll admit my first set of pics sucked, but atleast it was something..

We'll start off in front. Which is my new avatar..


Front passenger side..


Passenger side almost from the back...


Her rear...

 

MOOOOAAAARRRRRRR!!!!!!!!

My nasty lookin bed... Whatever they put down is chippin up.. THe only all the way thru rust is in the front of the bed... Prolly from the rake...


Drivers side.. Looks like they started...


Just sum randon pics of the back.. Any input on what i should do to lower the rear is appreciated. Not sure what i got here. But im plannin on using Beefed blocks and hardware, maybe pull a leaf. Im gonna talk to him more about this though..




Heres what i got for an interior..
Drivers side.. As soon as i make a center console those speakers are comin out...


SR5, JVC cassette player,


Alittle saggy but good shape and ive got both sides..


Seats, dont think there stock cuz the holes dont line up. I dont like them.. Looking for sum newer durango, dakota, or siverado buckets or bench. Something comfy..


Floor.. Under the carpet is alright. Floor board is pretty solid, theres sum patchwork..


And thats all for now... I forgot a pic of the engine with my new carb on but i'll get it..

LMK what you all think..

 

Those look like the seats I pulled out of a '78 Pickup in a junk yard that I'm using in my pickup...

If you need the fresh air vents when you pull those speakers out, let me know, I think my parts truck has them available.

 

Hmmm.. we'll i dont like em and there goin as soon as a find something i like.

Yeah i need em. What other parts u got? Tail Lense passenger side?

 

One thing you can do to get the back lower is to trim down some of leaf springs, ive never seen 5 before lol. I have 3 and im gunna pull one,in combination with the blocks you can get low.

 

check out mine and standarbyker's build thread.

mine is "comfortably low" and his is dumped, as in not gonna go farther with out some work

 

Yeah dude i like both your trucks. Im goin for the "comfortably low" status.. Been thru both your threads many times. Good information there.

Yeah thats what everyone i know said, their like what u plannin on haulin..

anndddd when i was driving last night it started to misfire and died.. so i coasted into a qfc parking lot 2 blocks from my house, it was dark but i noticed my base gasket was leaking. Got it towed back to the house.

So i order gasket and a one of those weber books from carbsunlimited, and i put toyotaminis.(com) as my refrence..

 

Is that a shackle kit? I can't remember if there is one on mine. If it is an add on you can lose that and also reposition your exhaust. That'll take it down to stock height at least. I'll check mine when I get home.

 

thats the stock shackle. you do need one, there's no way to bolt it up and the springs wont work much without em, besides needing new length springs. shorter ones will bind, bend, then snap.




ive got a write up somewhere on here that show's how much i cut the front springs, and i flipped the overload and put 3in blocks. new owner doesnt want to touch the height, loves it. drives a lil softer then stock with way less body roll.