i think i might want to do a rebuild on my 22r. my biggest concern is how much would a machine shop generally charge to machine my block. and is it necessary to line hone the main bearing saddles? do i need to get it decked? do i need to get it bored too? or just honed?
I think the only time you need it decked is if you think its warped. If not no need to get it decked. You should also call around machine shops to see different prices and what your best option would be. What kinda rebuild are you looking to do? More power, daily, etc, etc? If you bore it you can fit a bigger pistons and stuff and make more power.
I can't tell you anything about prices, I'm not a machine shop nor do I KNOW anyone who is/works at one. Line honing the main bearing saddles will make sure that all the bearing surfaces are nice and even, thus causing you to use the same size bearings in all of them. You wouldn't want to put stock size bearings in all of them if ONE is out of round, that could be a factor in spinning a bearing and throwing a rod. After having this done, you'll need to get thicker bearing, but they'll all be matching. This also lends a hand in being able to spin the engine to higher rpms. provided your head/valvetrain will take it. If the deck is pitted, or warped, get it decked, but just enough to take out the pits or un-eveness (that's a real word, I just made it up). If you don't do this and install a head/gasket on a pitted or uneven surface, you could face premature failure of the head gasket. Getting it bored also is usually determined by the condition of the bores. If there are any scratches, or ridges (usually found at the top of the bore near TDC of each pistons stroke, as if the rings had pushed a lip up in the bore) you might need to bore. However, you also might get by with just having them honed to smooth out the surface. You want to see a cross hatch pattern on the walls of the bores. I said SEE not FEEL.
Im actually going through this process right now. Rod broke and scared #3 sleeve so I had to get those honed, had my crank redone (whatever thats called) and didnt need to do any deck shaving. All this was done for $225 I dont know if thats a deal or not cause Ive never had to have anything machined but thats what the mechanic charged me for it so Im assuming a bit high since they want to make money off anything even if they didnt do it themselves.
My local machinist is very skilled, but he is kinda spendy compared to a lot of prices I see people posting on the net. My block is pitted. To have my block hot tanked, bored, surfaced, then hot tanked again is going to run me around $400. I tried searching for prices like I have seen quoted on the net, but that seems to be the way the pricing goes at shops around here. Maybe these things just cost more in Cali, or maybe I'm getting gouged. Seems really expensive, but that's what I'm looking at cost wise.
when you take it to a shop that you like ask them to check the decking to see if it needs to be done and have them also check the bore and crank journals sometimes they will do that for free.. but if it does need any type of work done to it thats when they start charging you.........when i got my hybrid built it cost me 3 grand but i had the crank reground and balanced the block bored and the head and intake ported then i had them put together the short block for me and i feel like i got a pretty good deal......but one thing to remember a toyota motor is expensive to rebuild if a shop does everything
good price, hone is like 20 bucks for all 4 cylinders 20 bucks each cylinder to bore, crank is usually about 20 to clean, 50 to polish, and 90 to 130 to turn it (rebuild it)
