when replacing ball joints do they set down the same because i did my uppers and it gave me a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap
you mean do the spindles sit the same on the taper of the balljoint. generally yes they should be even from side to side, but ive seen it where there is a gap between the bottom of the joint and the top of the spindle... its normalish
from the spindle to the top of the upper control was a 1/8inch gap and then i gave me a gap so what your saying its normal for it to happen sometimes
yep...as long as its secure with the nut ( meaning you have cranked the nut down tight and put the cotter pin in ) then nothing is going to happen because of the taper of the joint
thanks i thought i did something wrong but everything is tight and pin is in the hole thanks and do you know how to do a bj flip on a 79 cause the lower control arm has a dimple and the boot wont go through it would you have to completely flip the ball joint and add a spacer
i dont think you can do the bj flip on the 79..i have a 73 and i looked into it but it didnt look like it would work..the dimple on top keeps you from doing it.
Hummmmm Good question... Seams if all the bolts are tight and the Ball joint is tight????? I have a 76 and I've been told that if I can't tuck 17's that I'll have to do the BJF
i'm really thinking bout just z'ing them and suporting them with some thick sheet metal but idk how safe it will be
for the older arms, on the lower, i have looked into it alot and taken alot of notes. you can either grind/cut off the dimple, and insert the balljoint from the top of the arm. or you can make a spacer for each of the bolts to run it from the top. but depending on camber/drop, you may still have to clearance the dimple a bit so it doesnt bind up on the tapered stud. for the top, you want to make the distance that the lower was raised in comparison to the control arm the same. so, if you move the lower up 3/4" (combined height of relocating and spacers) then do the same for the top. otherwise the angle between the arms changes, and that can throw things off. maybe not noticable but will effect the geometry. also, dont get carried away with spacers, it can cause bump steer. because the arms and tie rod should all be parallel. if it changes too much, it gets unsafe. in short, grind off the dimple, and make a plate on the bottom side before the bolts go back through, and it should all be good.
i donno, i slammed mine pretty good and the only thing im going to have to mess with is getting my camber back inline...i might just cut and lengthen the upper arm
eff that. camber is cool. nobody has more on a coil frame than me (bags dont count) and i love it. lol. sissies
