watsup yota heads....

i have a 22r head and was wondering if it is repairable...
the head exterior looks ok as in the condition outside, the metal and ****.. but where the valves are and the valve train, valve guides and the camshaft, all of that sh*t is rusted... do you guys know or think that it is repairable or not? as in, to take to a machine shop and get it worked on...

 

All you gotta do is take that stuff to any auto shop and ask them to cold tank it. Same thing as hot tank, just different chemicals since our heads are aluminum. That alone should clean every single nook and cranny that dirt/carbon could be hiding. You may have to take out all the valve train your self, unless you wanna pay extra for them to do it.

 

oo ok so those rusted on valves and camshaft won't affect it?

 

It shouldn't affect the cylinder head at all. I can't remember if the stock heads came with brass valve guides, but if yours doesn't, it might be a challenge getting the valves out. Keep in mind that we have aluminum heads, so the head itself shouldn't have any damage in that sense. Are you planning on using the stock valve train again, or are you more interested in just the head?

 

maybe you should post some pictures

 

ok... i will this afternoon^^

i wanna use new stuff on the head for more airflow and upgrade to high compression pistons and, bigger stroke? if possible... but i'll post pics today in teh afternoon...

 

The only thing I would be concerned corrosion wise is the cam bores.

Valve seats and guides are replaceable. You can clean/buff and mill most of the rest of it spotless. Definatly show some pics. I mean how corroded are you talking here?

 

well here they are:

 

more pics.....

 

and more... one is a 20R and the other head(with camshaft) is the 22R I believe, correct me if I am wrong please... So sd it machinable?

 

High res pics

links to HIGH res pics...


http://i39.tinypic.com/qnlgcw.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/312v66h.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/imtonq.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2vb8xgy.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/15eg3ud.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2ef51xc.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/2yyw3g2.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/64r01u.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/n695dx.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/nwg19w.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/eks17o.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/xf0t2c.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/20zxvdl.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/6ezwoi.jpg

 

Hmmmm. It looks like you gotta replace everything. Might not be cost effective. What are you up to? Building a screamer?

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=20R+head&_sacat=See-All-Categories

The second one looks like a deal. You goin 22r or 20r? Im kinda confused.

I got a 22/20R and it runs strong. I could give you some pointers on that.

 

going 22r all the way..

not sure why only one of the two heads has the thing for the fuel thingy... the hole on the front of the heads... one has one hole(for distributor) the other head has both holes... and i am confused which one is 20R or 22R... but plan to rebuild the 22R for more airflow... plan to put a 4bbl intake mani... headers... high comp. pistons... some super strong connecting rods... the whole deal.. lolz... i need pointerz, tips, etc.... 1st one i need is to figure out which head is the 22r...and not sure but, is one a fuel injection head?

 

The head without the fuel pump hole and no bosses for power steering brackets is a 20R head, 78 or older, round intake and exhaust ports, the other is an early 22R head, square intake and round exhaust ports.
From the looks of them its gonna take some change to put them in useable condition, strip them down, see if they are within spec for height, determine if the seats are even useable or pitted beyond saving, check the cam bearing straightness, if the height and straight check out, clean, glass bead, clean again, surface, then replace everything else if its determined salvagable. Probably have them pressure tested also.

 

do you know how to do all of this ****?? lol... i'd send it out to you if you can... if you CAN'T then for me... lolz... aww dam your in oregon ok i'll at least strip it down... since i cut my finger tips from my middle finger and ring finger from left hand 1 mos ago, i haven't messed with it since.. lolz... i just took off the mani and that was it.. but my middle & ring finger is so & so better now so i can continue with what i was doing... i'll get you guys an update tomorrow noon...



P.S. i plan on using the 22R head then.. lol...

 

Knowlage is power, so here you go,

When talking about a 22R or a 20R head, there are a couple of differences.
The 20R
-built until 1981. All are have double timing chains.
-The intake ports are ROUND. Biggest give away.
-The intake ports and stock intake manifold are a bazillion times better
-Have a tiny bit smaller chamber, so it bumps compression slightly.
-The valves are smaller
-All had iron rocker arms.
-Some came with a power steering boss, some come without a fuel pump mount.

22R
-Is simply an emission head.
-They came in two different variants. Double row chain and single row chain.
-Double row (i.e. early) heads are swapable with 20R heads.
-Single row (late) have a different deck hieght than early 22R and 20R heads.
-Easily spotted by the square intake ports.
-They have a swirl inducing design to the intake, a huge restriction for upper rpm power. (look an you'll see)
-Early 22R and 20R have the same exhaust ports. Late 22R/E have a pear shaped exhaust.
-Late 22Rs have aluminum rockers (they look gold colored). They help with rotating/recipricating weight. They can be put into all 20/22r/E's
-All 22REs are single row chains.
-People say sidedrafts own 4bbl intakes. I kinda think so too.


What years your engine? If its a dual chain, i'd suggest going a 20R head. They are better, and very buildable.
Did I miss anything guys?

A pic of why a 20R head is FTW. You can actually see the valve. WOW!

 

dam.. lol.. bad ass info... might have you over so you can help me out some(inner 610loop NE side )... so i guess i'll go with the 20R.. so how about displacement difference?? oh and i believe side drafts.. might be hard to find? rofl's.... but i'll go with side drafts wit airfilter since it will be a DD to tech. school

 

WTF! Your less than 5 miles away. Inner N loop inside. 45 and 610.

Theres no displacement difference. Just the head swap changes the comp ratio a little. I have to run mid grade W/ 15 degrees base timing here. I polished the chambers. We go cruisin sometime, bro.

I got a sidedraft intake, and Ill be putting on electronic throttle bodies (2 48MM twin TBs) on it sometime. But there like 6-700 bucks plus the cost of megasquirt. Just something for me to dream about I guess.

 

I'd scrap those heads bro, too much money to rebuild them like Nook said... You can find good used ones for less $$...

For example: There's a 22R with oversize stainless valves, dual springs and all... Check the for sale section....


Check me if you need any other parts... I'm just up the street from you...

shoootz!

 

I still have a sweet lil 20R head, its a LCE street performer thats been freshened up, has 22R seats installed, new 22R valves, bronze guides, porting, surfaced, all fresh with no run time since redone.
Just figured I,d mention it