any one has comp cams installed on their trucks...wanting to know how they perform???? and the specs???
Alot of people back home on Guam run 282 comp cams with good results. B.Y.E. hopefully will chime in.
I run Comp cams 268S in my 20R with dual side draft Mikuni's, never a problem and runs fine now for 20 years and counting.
Toyota 20R & 22R Magnum 280S Cam PART #87-131-6... Well rounded cam, power range from 2k-5K. Will wake up your motor for sure!
did you guys port and polish with dual valve springs. i got the comp cam 268 and i cant get the timing to 0 degrees, when i shot the the timing it was way more than a little over 12 degrees advance, i kept re doing the timing over and over and still never got it to 0 i dunno if its because the timing change is old and stretched but i never got a chance to change it.. stupid me
l0wlux~ Not sure if checkers has it... Summitracing has them listed still... 808~ I used it with the stock 200k+ miles single valve springs with no problems... As for timing... Is your truck EFI or carb?
I run the Comp 268S in my 20R with dual side drafts, only did mild port matching and run a single valve spring, many miles of reliable service. The dual springs won't buy you anything unless your running high RPM to control valve float, other than that they just promote cam and valve wear. Are you setting base timing with the vacuum lines pulled and plugged? idle speed set correctly so its not getting mechanical advance from centrifigal force, is the advance plate inside the distributor free and moving, if rusted it can not return to idle position so the weights are adding advance at idle. It should be 0 degree at proper idle with vacuum lines plugged, 12 with vacuum hooked up, plus you might want to run a few degrees more with the cam, best to experiment and see what the engine likes.
see thats one thing i dont even know if my vacuum advance on the dizzy still works. cause when i unplug and plug it the idle dont change at all, yes i set it at the correct idle speed but i dont seem to know whats the problem, and it kinda feels like i lost power a little.. i dunno whats up.
yea the timing sprocket is tdc.... that goes with the crank shaft pulley thats what i thought it was at first but i redid the timing over and over like three times. i double checked it see i dunno if its because the chain is old never did change would a streched chain be a factor... one thing i noticed is with the valve cover off i spun the crankshaft pulley clockwise but i noticed that the cam doesnt spin the same time.
wonder if you got a bad tensioner......... why not just replace the timing set if its never been done? if you claim its that old....... sounds like theres alot of slop in the chain but if the tensioner is bad then i can also assume its got no tension against the chain causing the timing to go way off........ before i did the timing set on MacRib's truck, thing was so wiped out that it retarded the timing on the cam by quite a bit...... so much so it was like a "power" switch when the cam finally came into power on the rpm level....... chain was pretty damn stretched retarding the timing a bit....
i will once i get the funds, i was just wondering if anybody had this problem and i wanted to see how the power on there trucks where. but thanks SD, nook and everybody else
is ur dizzy installed one tooth off? and try ask one of u buddies to see if there dizzy will act the same way on ur truck. maybe ur centrifal stuck or something. and the more advance timing the more power get, before it starts to ping or dieseling when u turn it off.
just now seeing this thread...... I have a comp cam in my 4runner (came with the performance long block I purchased). Makes power in the lower rpms. Has slight lope, no topend (could be that it's in a 4runner though with stock gears and 31's).
i if its one tooth off. but what i noticed is that their is a loud pinging noise that comes from the dizzy when the vacuum advanced is plugged in
Having the distributor off one tooth either direction really has no bearing on the cam timing, it will only effect the ability to rotate the distributor enough to properly time the engine if it won't turn far enough. Normally as you advance the ignition timing at the distributor pinging will occur if its advanced too far, old school timing rule was to advance until it pings under hard acceleration then back it off a few degrees, sounds like either you have the cam sprocket off a tooth and the cams advanced too much or something inside the distributor, like the advance plate or weights are not returning to O so your running too much advance then adding the vacuum advance is pulling it way to far advanced causing pinging. With the crank at TDC on the compression stroke, the cam gear sprocket dowel should be just left of straight up 12 oclock for proper alignment, the cam gear also doesn't move the same as the crank, it turns 1/2 the speed.