awesome work as always.... im going to start fiberglassing my business card inside peoples sub boxes from now on .

 

so .. postin the good with the bad !! (ugly pics)

continueing on , and almost done with the cutting ...
removed the wheel well and relocated it 2" up and removed 1" from the rear , and moved it forward , which will do 3 things ..
1. remove that .. n ... hump in the middle of the wheel well (stock seat ketch bracket)
2. create an armrest for the rear passengers instead of the stock 2" arm rest pad
3. allow a 84-89 4Runner roll bar to fit









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Love the build. You are really going all out. Some very wel thought out mods.

Couple questions

The rear tub is 2 piece?? A inner and a outer tub?? How do they go together, just bolted or actually bonded together? I understand the concept, fiberglass back half, but how does it connect to the cab?

Are there any actuall support structures?? It seems kinda flimsy to me. What is there to keep the other car or tree out of your backseat??

 

Thanks , and keep watching

Trekkers were build in the /80's ... mines an /83 SR5 .. one of the last ones built . The rear section was built completly in fiberglass , actually 4 pieces

the back haves are connected using about 1000 screws .. I plan on doing mine a little different .. some pics of a previous Trekker I built








canopy / topper



box sides


and

tub


and the rear hatch makes 4 .

the goofy "stock roll bar"




was originally mounted to the built winnabego frame .. but was a failed part

fiberglass is actually stronger then you might think .. the 84-89 4Runner removable roof is fiberglass , and seem to have heald very well for very many years .. even in roll overs and collisions


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and as far as I know ... the only long box Trekker in the world






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I see how it all goes together now. Thank you for the pics.

And I believe in the strength of fiberglass, I just thought considering the weight of a 83 Cadilac, there would be more structure.

Call those rear seats the Jesus seats

 

dont forget there would be a rear steel frame that would have to fold as well !!

pretty much a caddy hitting anything would be an issue




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stop it right now. before i have an all steel 78 trekker. lol. long bed at that.

i was actually telling JD how i wanna take the bed off mine and build it into a motorhome. and leave it this low. lol.

 

lots of grinding and sanding , gettin close to a finished piece .

wheel wells are now basically finished , little bit more to do . added/replaced the steel hatch support pieces , and glassed the old roll bar supports



also braced the floor as it looked like a washboard !! layed down a 24oz layer of woven roving , and then topped it off with a layer of 1.5oz mat .. floor should be flat again





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Nice looking work.

 

thanks Bud !!


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little bit more today ..
I was able to cut the 4Runner bar to the correct height



and test fit



also made up the base plates .



conserned about mounting the fiberglass tub to the frame and possably creating water leaks or even stress cracks i have decided to make a "flexable" mount . Poly performance makes a kit for this (thanks for the link Robb)
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Cage-Tie-In-Kit-p-433.html





but of course I will be making my own


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Dude, your work quality is amazing! If only I had the time and money, I would have fixed my 88 (getting sold), but now I got my Saturn.

 

thats an awesome idea.

 

thanks guys !!

so .. my version ..



just now will need to weld the "feet" to the roll bar and then the frame supports



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I got confused!!! What are these mounts for? The roll bar or body mounts??

 

roll bar .... currently if I just bolt it down .. it's only bolted to fiberglass .. in a roll over , it wouldnt be secure enough for me to be comfortable with passengers in the rear .. so I will then take the mounts I made , and continue them down from the fiberglass to the frame . The mounts I made have composite bushings so it will allow for independant movement between the body and frame releaving pressure as it would be , and stopping any future water leaks or stress cracks in the glass , which I believe would happen if it was "hard " mounted .



clear like mud ?




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been going threw withdrawls not being able to work on my Trekker , so I have been going back after the shop has closed , to get some work done ...

so working on the rear tub as well , I "attached" a 2x4 to the outside to level the mounting flange (substraight)



re-glassed-- adding 2 layers of 24oz woven roving + 5 layers of 1.5oz mat .. basically , this will make it stronger then the original steel that was in there + it should last and not rust out like the stock one !



2x4 substraight removed and flange trimed



and now the sides and topper back on for body line adjustment ... OMG sometimes I even amaze me .. it's perfect and need NO adjustment .. i'm super happy with it ....







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that thing is so sexy. makes me wanna do up my 78.

 

got to work on the rear floor crossmember today

welded and bent up the pieces I need , and got it "built"



Tacked into place for now , untill I "blow" it all apart again for paint , I will then finish all the welding .



if you compare the previous pics of the seats , you'll notice the seats wernt level .. but now with the rear floor support in ,



and Now .. I can finish the rear tub !!!!! ;D
heres the start




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